@Tracker John posted:Strap hinges with a 3/4" block under them to raise the hinge pin above the rail height worked well for me. You'll need to bevel the free end of the bridge for clearance when closing.
Thanks to @gunrunnerjohn for his great example and picture.
And the key that holds true in most of the fold up bridge designs is- placing the hinge pin line above the track. This allows straight cuts in the track without worrying of binding when raising the bridge. How the rest of the hinge below the table surface is bent really doesn't matter, the magic part is having the fulcrum just above the rail top surface.
Sorry, but this method here I don't think works out well. You are still swinging that back edge of the track on top of the table in a way I don't think can mate up. Again if the track joint was at the edge of the "bridge", it's then hitting the table track that is still there also to the same parting line.
Maybe you can prove me wrong with something I'm not seeing. I think you used the wrong hinge and wrong placement.
