Hi, I too am renewing my childhood trains and have run into some issues with the 1122E switches, but learning as I go along. It looks like yours are insulated fine and are working as they should with the non-derailing feature. I had the same issue with a couple of engines that would actually reverse direction when they went over the switch. I used a piece of Scotchbrite pad, rubbing alcohol and a soft cloth to really clean all the rail tops on the layout and especially the center rail on the switch that was creating the issue. Also, I made sure all the wheels and pickup rollers are just as clean to make good contact for even power and ground supply to the engine and lighted caboose. I noticed the light in yours was flickering a little. It will help that condition and totally fixed the issue for me as well as the sparking problem. Another problem I had with the 1122s is the proverbial question of track versus accessory power, not having quite enough power to throw the switch fast enough and/or not going into the locked position all the way. These switches can be modified for constant accessory power if you want and will eliminate the problem. But the biggest problem I had with one of the switches is that it did not lock in either direction, even on full track power (without a train on the track). It would slowly drift from fully open or closed and activate the coils in the switch motor and then really vibrate and hum. It may have just been from wear and old age, like me! I ended up using a short piece of really small gauge insulated wire, maybe 24 gauge, and put it through the hole in the rack and pinion as a shim to hold the motor plunger back. I used another piece of just insulation, stripped from the wire and flattened with pliers, to put through the bracket on the other end of the same bar for a little added friction. Problem solved, if only temporarily. I hope this helps. Good luck and have fun.
Dave A
