Raiderofcoffins posted:Moonman posted:I was able to locate some access hatches with some siding rearrangement and rearranging the loop. The hatch edges begin at the seam of the full 4' x 8'. You can see the location by the rulers as measured from the left corner along the back wall.
The second set is offered for the 2nd reverse track optional track plan and has hatches. The location can be orientated by rulers. Only one uses the edge seam.
If you can get through smaller holes, then make them smaller.
I am sure that you have already discovered that climbing on the table is a pain. If you must leave it this way, make some crawl boards or get a coupe of commercial carpet tile with rubber bottoms to put down on the track. This is an ok way to do it, but eventually it will distort the rails or mess up a joint.
There are top side creepers available. They are about $250 and will make it difficult to reach across 8'. perhaps 5' or 6'.
I like the second one but the switch on the top left no train will fit under that rise. Is there any way you could show me how to put a second level instead
Good catch! Here's is a cleaner method that goes under the curve at about 5". It should leave enough for most engines. No maxi-stacks or auto-rack cars.
Sit the engine on a piece of track and slide it under to check the clearance. If it's close, the trestle can shimmed for an 1/8" to 1/4" on the bottom from there to the bridge. That won't kill the grade in that area.
