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Reply to "Methods for Removing Factory Paint off Plastic Models?"

I have been using a dilute solution of lye, sodium hydroxide, for many years to strip plastic, since the late 60s at least.  I keep it in a 6 gal. bucket with a snap on lid. If I am not mistaken sodium hydroxide is the active ingredient in oven cleaner as well.  The stronger you mix it the faster it will remove the paint. However if you mix it too strong it will generate so much heat that it melts the plastic.  I used to use Red Devil lye but it was removed from store shelves several years ago as it was also useful in the production of crack cocaine so now you have to buy drain cleaner. At this moment I am using COMSTAR Commercial Lye that says on the bottle for drain cleaning and paint removal. If you use drain cleaner buy the type that DOES NOT have little metal flakes in it. Lye has an infinite shelf life and a pound will last me ten years, give or take.  Depending on the dilution you can strip one layer of paint off at a time, especially silver paint. For some reason I find a lot of old trains that someone decided would look better silver. With a weak solution I have been able to remove silver paint leaving the original paint and decals intact.  Lye will also remove chrome plating from plastic. A lot of old Flyer plastic passenger cars have chrome plating that is mostly worn away. The lye will finish it off.  I tie a nylon or polypropylene string to the car and lower it into my bucket leaving most things overnight then use a nylon bristle brush to scrub it the next day. Repeat till all the original paint is gone.  The main reason I like to remove the original finish before applying new paint is you can apply your new finish much thinner if you do not have to cover the old graphics.  I have used the lye solution as strong as eight oz. of crystals per gal and as weak as one.  Just depends on how fast you want to get the paint off and how much heat your plastic can stand.  I would start off rather weak about two oz. per gal.  and add a little more lye till it strips at a rate you like. Also remember the weaker the safer should you get it on yourself. I usually don't wear goggles as my solution is quite weak but should you opt for a speedier mix get yourself a good pair of goggles that seal around the edges. If you keep your hands in it for any length of time it will make your skin raw and chapped. A little lotion on your hands before you start is a good precaution. Or gloves, though I don't like to wear them as I seem to be more likely to splash or drop something if I am wearing gloves.

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