@IRON HORSE posted:Why do you dislike PS3 boards? And why would you prefer a PS2 3V with a battery replacement instead of a PS3? I appreciate your insight.
Also, can you clarify PS2 3V versus the earlier PS2? Wasn't the earlier version a 5V BCR1? But the actual earlier version used a NiCad 8.4 volt battery, right? Why is the battery replacement a 5V but the battery was an 8.4 volt? And to make it even more confusing, MTH said in its engine manuals that you can temporarily use a 9 volt battery instead of an 8.4 V?
I have had more failures and problems with PS/3 boards per capita than with the 3V PS/2 boards. Also a simple flaw on a PS/3 board frequently is non-repairable. I refer to the lighting circuits for instance. If you pinch a wire and kill the a lighting output on the PS/2 board, you can frequently replace the driver FET, for the PS/3 board it's usually fatal to the lighting circuit. The list goes on...
With the demise of any meaningful support from MTH, if you "brick" a PS/3 board, you're likely out of luck. Several years back, I ran into a situation where a bad sound file was actually bricking the PS/3 steam tender board. The only way to recover them was to send them back to MTH, I'm not sure where I'd send them now.
@IRON HORSE posted:
Also, can you clarify PS2 3V versus the earlier PS2? Wasn't the earlier version a 5V BCR1? But the actual earlier version used a NiCad 8.4 volt battery, right? Why is the battery replacement a 5V but the battery was an 8.4 volt? And to make it even more confusing, MTH said in its engine manuals that you can temporarily use a 9 volt battery instead of an 8.4 V?
There are two major rungs in the PS/2 board family tree, the 5V board used a 9V rechargeable battery, the 3V board used a 2.4V battery stack. The 3V or 5V refers to the type of logic and it's operating voltage used on the board.
