@Craftech posted:1. Will try my 1033 (less power, but worth a try) This is my first MTH (except for the Bump N Go Trolley which requires very little power). I also have a 64 Watt.
Good move
2. All oiling instructions were followed. I will apply a dab of grease to the truck gears. The internal worm gear has plenty of factory grease - I looked. It is not that old actually and it is a PS3 without the DCS / DCC switch so maybe 2012?
This was originally made in a PS2 version. I thought you had that one. However, Its still good that you checked the grease. I apply another dab to my worm gear after 5 years. This is still well within that range.
3. I checked to see if the tach flywheel and other motor flywheel spin freely. They do.
Good sign. I also assume you didn't see any pinched or loose wires while you were looking
4. Given the way that the capacitors have to charge first in conventional before it will power up and move, HOW CAN I CHECK to see if BOTH motors are turning?
Easy. Just remove the shell and place the engine on the track without the shell on. Then turn on the power gradually. You should be able to see the fly wheels moving on both motors. If the interior plastic shell is obstructing your view, remove that. The engine will still run, albeit without interior lights.
With
5. The forum member I bought it from ran it on DCS, but I don't believe it is exhibiting any signs that it needs a reset to run on conventional. Stops / starts/ reverses/ automatically moves after announcements, etc.
Some of these DCS engines display weird behavior when only run in command mode and then switched to conventional. That's why resetting may help. When run in conventional, the power requirements are significantly LOWER for these DCS subway engines, since the speed control is disabled. I am able to run all of my subway engines in conventional mode at high speed with just 10-14 volts depending on how many cars are being pulled. The fact that your engine is not doing this makes resetting it well worth a try.
Thanks,
John
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