John, please see my comments in Orange below inside the quote box.
@Craftech posted:Thanks Steve,
I posted another thread in the 3 rail forum asking about Gargraves switches. They don't seem to be widely used very much.
1. I'll cut the corner off the Fastrack roadbed to allow for the Gargraves switch and transition track to clear
2. Also, what do I do with the plastic section of the switch that are missing pins. You can see them in the photo. They aren't on the 0-54 switch. Those have metal track ends with pins. All the 0-46 switches have a triangular plastic corner with a pin missing. Nothing on their website explains what to do with that.
My only O gauge track real world experience with is with Lionel FasTrack and Tubular. My guess would be that if there is no place in the O54 GG switch frog for track pins, that one might only use the provided pins for the necessary electrical connections and the frog would be electrically isolated. If the track is secured to the base, the remaining two steel pins should provide enough physical strength to keep the joined track aligned.
3. Let me see if I understand how to isolate the inner and outer loops.
A. Cut the center rail of the two Gargraves transition pieces at the loop exits. Either that or it may be possible to use Fibre pins to create center rail isolation between one of the switches and the short GG straight if the GG switches will accept them. But, since the center pin connection would be providing one of only two physical alignment forces between the divergent end of the crossover switches and the straight track in between them while mounted on a somewhat flexible base, using all steel pins and cutting the center rail on the straight instead may make the physical track connections more solid.
B. Wire all three center rails together on the switches (as with all Gargraves switches) I think that is correct.
C. Attach a wire to each half of the cut center rail on the transition piece and attach them to a toggle or slide switch. Maybe. However, the center rail power to each loop could be connected anywhere on the loop (if not using DCS) and preferably in two or more places, but it doesn't necessarily have to be near the center rail break between the loop crossover switches since the power will run through them as discussed above in 3B.
D. Or use the Atlas #215 selector. I looked up a photo of that and I already have one in the basement that was intended for my N Gauge, but never used. I assume it works for O Gauge as well. Even thought Atlas markets similar selectors (more expensive with less switching options) specifically for O gauge, I can attest that I have used 2 of the #215s for twelve years while running two dual motor (O gauge) diesels simultaneously pulling 15-20 car loads with no problems all from the same power source. I would guess that load to be about 6-8 amps. The "O gauge" Atlas selectors likely have a higher current rating than the #215.
E. No plastic insulator pins are needed anywhere on the layout. If you decide to independently wire the spurs as isolated blocks, insulating pins might be used instead of cutting the center rail near the switches.
Truly appreciate the endless help you provide for members of the forum Steve. Thank you, Steve H
John
