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Reply to "New guy and new to model trains."

FWIW, not trying to scare you but rather give you best long term advice when using Fastrack.

Bottom line, be aware and possibly wary of the folded tab electrical contacts of Fastrack. Since the metal is already "tinned" soldering is relatively easy and will not melt the plastic roadbed in the process.

From this topic of another user having electrical problems on a Fastrack based layout- after the scenery was done....

Each section of fastrack normally has the shorting bar/plate that connects the outer 2 rails.

Now granted- that is the same folded tab construction that is known to loosen over time and potentially be subject to intermittent connection or higher resistance, but again, each typical curved or straight section of fastrack has this, so it makes a redundant and parallel connection down the outer rails of the track like a ladder if viewed from above. If one single outer joint was bad, in theory this bridges that failure.

This is the same reason I posted the switch information. That is because the center rail and it's connections are also folded tab through the switch- and thus a known possible failure point. So again, this area specifically is likely depending on the switch to carry power through it, center rail, and then center rail is also not redundant/parallel connections in track pieces making it prone to high resistance or intermittent connection through them.

Inside the switch, this stamped metal plate T or Y shaped and folded tab connections (not soldered from the factory) easily explains a loss of power or higher resistance intermittent connections as load and the weight of a train crosses.



Oh look, there is a switch there, right in the middle of this "dead zone" , heavily depending on it for carrying and connecting power- specifically center rail.

Again, the reason why I'm raising this is simple- do the work now, or do the work later, but eventually you are likely to run into this continuity problem and hopefully not end up finding this out long after you already locked down your track and began scenery.

I know, you might be asking- "You really want me to take apart my brand new switches and make mods, and then further, solder all those folded tabs all around my layout?".

Yes, an ounce (well maybe a pound) of prevention, pays off in knowing you have solid low resistance power to all track sections with good continuity for the long term of your layout.

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