I'm waiting for the superglue to dry but you can see the repair below. I was afraid the metal spring that centers the knuckle would short so I followed GRJ's advice and I put 2 layers of shrink tubing on the ends of the metal spring to prevent shorts against the coil winding. It was difficult to get the top of the coil very clean and the soldering job was a very frustrating affair. The coupler was firing but not opening without assistance. I'm hoping once it's together a little graphite shot into the knuckle will allow it to move more freely. That's worked on a coupler that didn't want to open before. And this entire engine hasn't seen the light of day in 2-3 decades.
Meanwhile, I tackled the cab body. I cleaned it thoroughly. I then drilled out what was left of the broken off stem of the radio wheel and put in the replacement from Jeff at ttender.com I also soaked the Chesapeake & Ohio lettering with a wet paper towel for 30-45 minutes and then gently pushed at close intervals on what was left of the letters try to break them up and used my fingernail to scratch off the rest. If you scratch too hard you take off the cab paint and you're down to the grey plastic. Then I soaked the new plastic strip with fresh lettering (also from Jeff) and placed it over a wetted side of the cab. After sliding it to the ride spot and dabbed excess water off and used a hair dryer to dry it more thoroughly. I pressed it in place over the ridges to get out excess water and help the now warm plastic lettering conform to the uneven surface. I was vey happy with the overall result.
