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Reply to "No Track Voltage"

I thought I was crazy, the way this is

@romiller49 posted:

As Rich shows you’ll need separate connectors for hot and ground. It may be easier simply to buy the MTH power strip. They are already separated.

I thought I was crazy, to me the way this is wired would be a dead short. If you look at the barrier strip, the terminals on the right side and left side are common for each pair (the pairs are isolated from each other). If he put the power on the two bottom screws like that, he would have a short because the ground and hot would be shorted.

The way the barrier strip is native is each pair (right/left if you will) is connected, but each pair is isolated from the other pairs unless you jump them.

You could use a single barrier strip like this, but I would use 1 for hot, 1 for the ground side. If you use the single barrier strip, using your barrier (which looks like 12 rows), you could hook the neutral to the bottom right screw, then on the right side jump from the neutral screw to the one above it, until you are at the 6th position. At the top right put the hot, and then jump down to the next 5. Doing  this, on the left side (output side) you would have 6 hot terminals starting at the top left, then 6 neutrals below that.



I agree totally with another poster, buy yourself a VOM, you can get one cheap at Harbor freight or almost anywhere. For example, in this case, with it in OHM (resitance mode), you can determine if the right/left terminal pairs on the strip are in fact connected the way I think they are.You can see if the powermaster is even putting power to the strip (the fact the light is on the powermaster may only mean it is plugged in, not that it is putting out power) by using the AC volt scale, and so forth.

Last edited by bigkid

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