brianel_k-lineguy posted:TBS, someplace in my travels, probably in the clearance bin at a hardware store, or at some closeout kind of store, I purchased a set of these dental hooks which I have found incredibly useful in replacing traction tires. Those and a real narrow mini-screwdriver.
Many people here have written they use bullfrog snot to adhere traction tires.
I haven't read of anyone using my technique, but I use a double sided carpet tape to adhere traction tires. The tape is an inch and a half wide. I've gotten real good at cutting a very narrow piece with ordinary scissors.
First clean the grooved wheel with isopropyl alcohol and a tissue to get any grease off the wheel. Then I put one thin piece of the tape in the groove and then peel off the backing paper. Then I cut one more piece of the tape, and place that in the groove. There will be a tiny bit of overlap but that's okay. You just want to be sure you get the tape down smoothly with no creases or folds.
Having the carpet tape on the wheel, then I get the traction tire started on the top part of the wheel facing towards the engine sheet metal frame. Using the dental hook, I can then easily work the traction tire around the wheel, turning the wheel by hand from the opposite wheel that is on the same axle. With the carpet tape on the wheel, the traction tire goes on very easily.
And when I need to replace the traction tire, I pull it off and use a narrow screw driver to scrape off the old carpet tape.
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I had one of those engines at one time. The single axle drive Alco's by Lionel are not great pullers by any means. These were low cost engines intended for low cost starter sets to hopefully introduce people to the hobby (competing with the low cost MARX sets of that time). Problem was, people saw the "Lionel" name on the box and expected a little more.
As others suggested, adding some self-adhesive weights (like the ones used for automotive tire balancing) to the locomotive sheet metal frame, directly in front of the motor truck, may help a little.
You could also try putting a strip of vinyl electrical tape on the opposite non-grooved wheel. You'll have to cut a length of tape, place it on a clean piece of glass, and cut it to the proper width using a metal ruler and a razor blade.
I've also use the traction tape made for bath tubs for this purpose, cut in the same fashion as above, save that the tub tape has a backing on it that gets peeled off first.
But either way, adding this to the opposite non-grooved wheel will not hold out forever. Eventually it will start coming loose (sooner than the actual traction tire) and will have to be replaced again. BUT this may help you get a little more pulling power from the engine. I'd try adding some weight first.
Also, if you are pulling non-postwar cars: the modern post-1970 types of train cars that have the fast angle wheel sets, that will be an improvement in pulling power, just because there is less drag from the train. If you are pulling postwar train cars, cleaning the axles and wheels and then adding a drop of oil to the axles right where the wheels are will help. STILL, it will be a short train. But you might be able to pull 4 cars instead of 2.
Not that I'm recommending it, but if the OP continues to have difficulty trying to mount the traction tires, the bullfrog snot can be used as a substitute for the traction tires.
I know, I know, there are many issues with doing that, but at least it will get him going again with a minimum amount of effort.
