Another point I just thought of. If you unplug the motors from the board and hook leads to one motor their parallel and both will run. You can prop the chassis up or lay it on it's side so the wheels and flywheels can turn freely. I use an old LGB transformer when I need variable DC and they dial down to very nearly O vdc most any good HO powerpack would be acceptable. Most of these will also dial down to nearly 0 volts. This is useful in that one of the motors will almost certainly start running first. This is OK however you want the second one to start in less than a volt more. If it doesn't, with the lightest touch you can muster, turn the flywheel on the motor which started first to feel the level of resistance then turn the flywheel on the reluctant motor and make a mental comparison of the effort. It should not take significantly more effort. If it does start looking for mechanical problems. And don't forget the SNIFF test sniff the holes near the top of the motor for any hint of burn. After you have determined that both motors turn equally free yet one starts at more than 1V more disconnect one lead from the reluctant motor and hook up your VOM set to read amps and take a look at the current draw it should free wheel with no load under 1amp at 12v If both motors match and test OK your back to the board. j
|
|
