Agree with a couple of points above... Need to lay down a thin primer coat before color coats (cannot trust paints that say 'primer and paint in one', or some such allusions), and that should be allowed to dry for a couple days, 48 hours, Then, apply your first paint, let dry for a couple days (no-to-minimal residual odor).
BTW, always keep spray coats minimal (but adequate to your satisfaction). This is especially important on resin castings with lots of surface details...brick mortar, wood grain effects, cut stone, et al. Too much paint will fill and 'wash out' those special details making it harder to appreciate them and accept subsequent weathering steps to celebrate them.
If you're going to then mask areas, I suggest YELLOW Frog Tape...the low tack stuff. It will have the least chance of pulling paint when removed. And when you remove tape, never pull 90° to the surface...ALWAYS pull tape back along itself. Be advised, though, that the low tack tape will be more difficult to seal along irregular surfaces. Low tack taped is a 'double-edged sword' in the painter's arsenal. And, if you're concerned about bleeding when using low tack tape, a tip is to apply a first coat of the base color (the color you masked to retain) along the edge of the tape. You could even do this with just a fine tipped brush rather than a re-spray. It will provide a seal to minimize/eliminate bleeding of the second color beneath the tape. If there will be no further taping and additional color layers, you should carefully pull tape after the paint coat has lost its wet appearance. DO NOT let taped paint dry as thoroughly as with the primer and first coats, or there may be tearing of the paint along the taped edge...the 'dry' analogy of wet bleeding.
Just some thoughts from a continuing student at the School of Hard Knocks that work for me...FWIW.
KD
