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Reply to "Question about PS3 Boards"

UPDATE:

Gunrunner John....went over all of the micro connections on each end of the draw bar (under a magnifying glass) with the multi meter, and everyone checked out perfectly. No "dead" pins or wire connections to any of the pins. I am still inclined to pack-up the circuit board and send it on its merry way to visit to your workshop for testing......hang the expense!!!!

GGG.......just for your edification......we have a 240V electricity supply here in Australia that will kill you in a heart beat!!!! I have to use a step-down transformer to drop our 240V to 110V to power my MTH transformers, remotes, and "bricks" when I get them sent out from America.

I'm still of the opinion the tender circuit board is the problem, and is not receiving some of the signals from either the transformer or hand-held remote.

GGG.....you also mentioned earlier on that I need to disarm the smoke feature on the remote to stop it coming on when the loco is under the control of the remote.

I have attached a couple of photos showing my transformer set-up (each transformer/remote is independently isolated with on-off toggle switches - I only have one main line to run trains on), the MTH DCS remote I am using, the step-down transformer (please overlook the rats nest wiring), and Z 1000 and Z 750 bricks that power the MTH transformer and hand-held remote.

You will see there is no "smoke button - on/off" on my poverty-pack MTH remote, so I cannot disarm the smoke feature when the loco is in "run away train" mode, under the control of the remote.

Sorry again for the epistle, but this thing is getting bigger than Ben Hur!!!

Peter....Buco Australia

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