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Reply to "Question about PS3 Boards"

Most Recent Update!!!!

GGG:  I un-soldered the leads to the smoke unit (see photos below), and this certainly stopped the wick from burning itself into oblivion.

It did not make one once of difference to the out-of-control speed of the loco. I went as far as removing the top of the smoke unit to view the mini fan, and noticed it was not spinning, even when the loco was running, so I don't believe there is any "interference" from the smoke fan.

I traced all of the wires from the "boiler board" to the motors and the accessories, and none were found to be "pinched", "grounded", or disconnected. I even tested all of the tether wires one by one again, all the way from the draw bar to the "boiler board" pins, and every wire tested OK on my multi-meter. I now know for a fact there is no break in any of the wires between the "tender board" and the "boiler board".

I carefully disconnected the wiring harness, and then gently removed the "boiler board" from its plastic mount, and visually inspected it - both sides - but I could not see any burn marks or "distressed" components. See photos of it below.

You asked if the transformer and the hand-held remote share the same "brick". The answer is no....they each have their own dedicated Z 750 or Z 1000 "brick". I have a duplicate set-up on a "staging yard" (independent to my main layout) with exactly the same Z 750 "brick" and hand-held remote, as well as a Z 1000 "brick" and MTH hand throttle transformer, and this loco behaves exactly the same as when it is on the mainline layout.

Gunrunner John: I carefully examined the fine wires attached to the tach senser board, and found them to be OK. See photos below. I did the multi-meter test between the soldered wires on the senser board, and the plug connection to the "boiler board", and all three wires checked-out OK.....no breaks.

I removed all of the mini cable ties from the wiring harness (what a rats nest of wiring that turned out to be) to access the different connections, and the "boiler board", and to try and trace each wire for a possible fault. Result......NOTHING!!! I have used "twist-ties" to hold the harness together....not as professional, but it's a stop-gap measure at the moment.

Bottom Line.......nothing has changed after all of this!!  The loco still goes into "run-a-way train" mode if I operate it using the hand-held remote, and it must be re-set out of the "speed control" feature to get the loco to run smoothly on the hand throttle transformer.  I GIVE UP!!!!!

Gunrunner John, can I just pack-up the tether cable, the tender board, and the boiler board, and send them to you for "proper" testing????? I don't know how to remove the tach board off the motor, or I would send this as well.

Peter  (Buco Australia)

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