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Reply to "Doing Electrical Wiring on my Existing Tmcc / Legacy Layout"

That self posted! The idea of a bus is to move power in bulk to a more available location(s) with as little loss as possible. Usually that's more power than would be used by an individual component. In the end it simplifies installation and often saves some wire as well. Many wires vs few stands a better chance at creating or being influced by outside fields as well. Doesn't really apply here (yet ) A negative might be a stronger field in a fat wire effects a smaller wire easier because it often has a stronger field. Yes, even though insulated, and especially with signal transmissions, wire paths and crossings can interfere with each other. Usually it's a feed voltage breaking the signal up. 2" has been my magic distance with serial data and power runs that wanted to fight. You never know till a system's use is attempted. Shielded wire has a wrapping of foil that can help prevent interference. It's used regularly when a signal carrier is vulnerable to outside fields. There is a certain amount of resistance involved with every splice. But if done nicely, it's hardly readable. For our purposes, you may as well say none. So yes in theory no break in the bus is better, but that's overkill for general purpose low voltage wiring. I worry more about heat than anything. I run wire gauge in overkill to avoid it. I've seen too many closely gauged systems burn up the wiring when one gauge larger would likely have saved a whole system. (Especially automotive, and getting worse imo as companies try to eliminate any excess cost right down to tiny bits of slack that would be useful upon a repair in the area. I don't wire with profit in mind ) Our standards are set for operational parameters; I like to step it up to preventative. E.g. despite Lionels suggestions, I'd be prone to run 14g vs 16g. In fact, I run most of my buses in 12g; and if 10g was handy wouldn't shy from it either. My wiring should be the last of my worries even under a long term direct short. It won't likely melt insulation in the worst of situations. Each nick in a wire makes the gauge weaker. A broken strand as well. I've lost as much as 50% of a wire in suitcase connectors, so I don't use them often and pay close attention to detail when I do. Pressure has a HUGE impact on connectivity. A wedge fit can loose pressure again pretty easy. It may have more pressure than a sprung lever, but the sprung lever stands less chance of loosing it's pressure, and if it did due to wire deformation, by say ...over time, it could more likely and more easily be reseated imo. A screw terminal or solder is the "best", but I like the WAGO style for it's ease of use too.

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