I have seen post about non-derailing switches. How does the wiring work for that?
Rich - see above. The non-derail works by creating an isolated portion of the inside rail (ground) of a track before the switch exit. When a car passes over the isolated track it triggers a ground connect to the switch motor which causes the motor to activate and move the point rails in the correct direction. I don't like cutting into the switch track so I usually isolate the inside rail of the track section just before the turnout.
Since you are connecting track ground to switch ground via the left and right switch terminal only thing I would add is make sure the ground for both track and the switch motors are common to each other.
Why are you using European style terminal connectors ? Do you have a picture of your wiring that you could share ?\
Just a pet peeve of mine. Spade connect terminals are just fine also. European connectors were originally made so that bare wire could be inserted without have to crimp on a connect but the wires in mind were solid core. We use stranded so I got into using wire ferrules. I crimp the wire ferrule onto the wire and insert the crimp connect into the terminal. For me this is a rock solid connection. I have had wires pull out of spade style crimp connects (probably poor crimping on my part) but I have never had a wire pull out of a ferrule crimp. Once it is screwed into the European terminal connector it is not going anywhere.
Below is a typical wire ferrule
If I need to make jumper cables then I do below. However a forum member told me about a source that supplies ready made jumper bars for a typical 8mm pitch terminal. A good source for both the wire ferrules and the European terminals is Ferrules Direct
Altech HCL8-12 (8mm pitch 12 position) - got these from Mouser but they are expensive - $4 each for 12 position. I ended up going back to making my own.
With respect to the basic connection for a switch motor to a control board see below.
If you want to add an indicator light at the track (I use DZ-1011R with tape over the detector) then you need a DZ-1008 relay. The wiring gets a little more complicated. This is why I have 4 wire terminals under every turnout. For non-derail I run the wire from the track to the appropriate green or yellow terminal.
