Chris,
It's probably a question of semantics. Backing up slightly, before I attempt using the resistance soldering tool/machine, I will use the most powerful magnifying visor I have and look for anything obvious. If I find nothing I will use an ohm meter to get some sort of resistance measurement. From there I will crank up the resistance machine as far as it will go. I then carefully clamp one lead to the axle or backside of the driver and hold the probe against the inside of the offending tire. This is done just in case there is a disaster and this technique doesn't clear the problem. Any mark, or scar, will be on the inside where we can't see it. This did happen one time but it wasn't bad and after a little cleanup it was gone. A plated tire, like what's on the Overland model in question is, in fact, more susceptible to damage so you have to be extra careful. I usually only tap the foot switch once to see if I can clear (vaporize) the offending material. Sometimes I have to do it more than once. Often times you'll see a little puff of smoke or hear a popping sound. After using the resistance solder machine for a while you can tell if there is continuity. I always go back to the ohm meter and verify the short is gone. If I get lucky and see the area where the miniature puff of smoke and/or popping sound came from I will try to clean out any debris. I suppose I've done this procedure a couple of dozen times and have never had another issue with the same driver. This tells me it was ether fixed or the client just didn't want me to work on the model anymore. Probably could go either way.
I just realized, I didn't really answer your question. Yes, we're trying to burn/vaporize/eliminate a small metal particle lodged between the driver's center and tire.
I hope at least a bit of my rambling made sense.
Jay
