I use slots for drivers, with 3/8" square brass bearings ("driving boxes", in the vernacular). At the top of each slot there is a hole for the spring to seat in, or two holes, depending on how I feel at the moment on spring size.
But rather than inserting springs, I cut 3/8" square pads from cork gasket material (or rubber, but I think the cork will last longer), and insert it in the slot to hold the bearing against the keeper ("pedestal binder").
Fully equalized is not that difficult. The Scale Craft Northern was equalized between drivers, and sprung with actual leaf springs! Ditto "Little Engines" live steamers.
Sofue and KTM equalized lead and trailing trucks as well. That is slightly more difficult.
I agree with Chainsaw. It makes absolutely no difference whether springing is better or not. What makes the difference is what you like. I like the idea of sprung drivers, so I set up that way. I like the performance of a fairly rigid frame, and only insert springs if I see a problem - like the lead driver on a 4-10-2 climbing a rail. But most of my locomotives can be sprung with a screwdriver and some spare time.
