The reason you don't see the big swing of the glad hand (simulated air hose) in the video is that the knuckle can only only swings a few degrees. The stiff draft gear springs I'm using are just strong enough to prevent the additional glad hand swing that would occur if the coupler head moved sideways. When I pulled a cut of cars with soft Kadee delayed action draft gear springs over the magnets I did get a big swing of the glad hands. The good news for those that do AND do not use delayed action is that the small super magnet uncoupler actually works better than the more expensive Kadee 811 uncoupler. IMO the biggest plus is that the are easy to hide under a thin layer of ballast. I expect the small super magnets will work equally well for 3RS Kadee users but you will probably have to position the drywall screws higher due to the taller rail. I 've found that positioning the top of the drywall screws 1/4" below the rails head works nicely. With code 125 rail the 8mm x 3mm magnets sit just below tie height - good for hiding the magnets below a thin layer of cinders.
As I have dozens of existing Kadee 811 magnets to replace and several new uncoupling locations to equip I made a drill guide to provide consistent drywall screw positioning. I made the fixture using the steel plate from a Kadee 811 uncoupling magnet. The holes were spotted so that when the plate is centered between the rails the drywall mountain screws will be 5/16" inside the rails and on 3/8" centers. Below are photos of how I used the guide to install magnets on an interchange track. In this area I'm using 2 rows of 4 magnets for a slightly longer uncoupling zone. A depth gauge was handy in adjusting the height of the drywall screws to 1/4" below the rail head. When my "bulk" buy of 8mm x 3mm magnets arrives I'll super glue 4 additional magnets to the screw heads and put down cinder ballast to hide the magnets.