Skip to main content

Reply to "SWITCHES: Manual vs Actuators, Regarding Non-Derailing, or lack thereof"

Big_Boy_4005 posted:

I do my Tortoises and push rod throws with the same basic mechanism, a bell crank. The way it works is, I drill a small hole in the layout decking, about 1-1/2" from the throw bar on the switch. I then insert a brass tube in the hole and glue it in place.

Then I bend a piece of music wire to fit between the the hole in the throw bar and the tube. This needs to be fairly precise, because if it is off by too much, it will bind and not work smoothly. You've just created the upper arm.

Now for the lower arm. With the wire sticking down through the tube, bend the excess at a right angle, and form a loop on the end of it. The length of the lower arm will determine the amount of throw you'll have. It should be about an inch. Longer means you have to push or pull further. 

Doing the powered spring switch, just requires longer arms. The mechanism needs to be soft enough that the train can push the points aside when it thrown against it. Too much tension will cause derailments. It's a fine line. When working properly you should hear a small clicking as the points snap back after a set of wheels pass through.

Thanks for the descriptions.
You wouldn't be able to post any pics would you?

Thanks again

OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Suite 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
www.ogaugerr.com

×
×
×
×
×