I prefer tripping a solinoid via #1 sensor, #2 switch or #3 short outer rail isolation rail vs longer sectioned isolated especially with low wheel count, traction tires, and/or light weight vehicles just because their track contact is already weaker comparied to a normal loco. I.e. the long single rail power feed tends to the most unreliable of those options for power loss & stall reasons imo. I keep to short isolating sections and relays & maybe capping for a linear coil .
I like reed switches as well. If for nothing else the ease of moving magnets or reeds appeals to me. Opto sets can be a pita at times too, morning sunshine to camera flash to I R remotes to overhead lightbulb conditions can drive you nuts ....or they may work reliably for years on end. Thats a players call on prefered use 
You will likely not miss continuous looping unless you run your SS alone often. A bypass for the stand's stop but leaving a pickup stop in play for a single (private sector vehicle? ) would fit MY sensibilities at least. A toggle and/or a relay are all it takes for looping as you noted.
Adding another stand/or stop at the other end just requires stacking the circuits, though each added length you can manage to fit seperating the stops makes timing/latching easier.
A company is mentioned in a currently running thread on anti collision without relays that produces a variabley timed "cascade" board system aimed at ladder siding control. They are tandemly stackable modules. I dont recall the co. name, but it may be a plug and play option or closer to it. Last I looked there were some additional automation modules in the works but ive no idea how that has progressed since I haven't been to the site in near a decade. (might be DC & G scale based, but no taxi/mow set up is likely to be above the amp range offered) Its simple stuff to repoduce sure, but premade and stackable is refreshingly simple too,
I think you could get an easier, better adjusting, lighter give rate from a stretched type coil spring vs finding balance on a torsional one (that looks offhand made to just maybe snap lock points left or right too). Im thinking a lawnmower's butterfly valve/governor spring would be about right. You only need a slight deflection of points and a return; these are delicate springs on most càrbs anymore and long or short hooks both so hiding the coil could be as versitile as a "hollow log" , stray pipe , tool/electric boxbox up to about 3" away . The hook lead/ rod hid in brush etc.
