Reply to "The gap between engine and tender on Lionel's J3A Hudson"

breezinup posted:
D500 posted:

When drawbars were just little pieces of steel or brass with a hole or such at each end, and tethers were wires and plugs not married to, or even dating, the drawbar, all you had to do to get better-looking gapage was to drill another hole or two, or make a new drawbar from steel/brass stock (easily available) with hand tools, swap them out, and, badda-bing, badda-boom: all was improved. 15 minutes, in most cases.

I really dislike "wireless" and circuit-board tethers. Really. It makes the ugly gap permanent (for most), or a pain to correct (for some) - 

These over-wrought tethers are not good ideas.

Yup. When some folks mention drilling holes or fabricating new drawbars, I don't know how that's done with engines and tenders that are equipped with wireless tethers. Without extremely complicated surgery, practically speaking, it does not seem possible to shorten the gaps between engine and tender. If there is a reasonably easy solution to this, I'd sure be interested to hear about it. 

As posted above, cut, overlap, solder together.

The "hard" part is not the shortening process but removing it from the engine and/or tender. The wires from the photo diode have to removed from their connector and threaded through the frame after removing the trucks.

Pete

 

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