Reply to "Toggle switches"

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Case in point.  So as the guys are saying, 125V AC or 12V DC are just data points.  You will be (very) hard-pressed to find a toggle switch specified with an Amperage capability at 18V AC (i.e., O-gauge command voltage).  There are so-called derating curves that effectively characterize how much current a 125V AC switch can carry at 12V DC (and vice versa)...accompanied by asterisks, disclaimers, at what not.  But we must be realistic - is anyone really going to stand around at Home Depot or Pep Boys and do the math? 

IF an illuminated toggle switch is of interest, for sure consider an automotive switch as you can't beat the price point.  The 30 Amp (12V DC) switch that cjack suggests will handle your Fastrack blocks no problem if you use the 5-cent diode as he suggests.  There have been OGR threads showing exactly how to do this if you choose this path.  I don't know about the price of the Calterm switch he suggests, but on eBay suitable (i.e., can handle the current for O-gauge block control) illuminated automotive switches can be had for about 50 cents each (free shipping from Asia) in a variety of LED colors and handsome looking to boot if I say so myself!

Otherwise, if a non-illuminated toggle switch is all you need...and Home Depot or the like is your store of choice, then expect to see the 125V or 250V ratings where anything, say, 10 Amps or more would be more than adequate for O-gauge 18V block control.

Separately.  For clubs or guys with massive layouts and dozens of blocks to control, there is the control panel issue.  You need dozens of toggle switches controlling power to blocks that can be up to 100 feet away!  This means the wiring to the control panel switches must carry the 10 Amps (or whatever) so you have thick, heavy, expensive cabling running the distance to the control panel.  In these cases, it can be advantageous to use relays located near the blocks.  Relays that can switch 10+ Amps go for about $1 per relay (no soldering required).  Then you use a much smaller control current (a fraction of an Amp) running from the control panel to the relay.  The wiring is smaller, lighter, less bulky, cheaper and you vastly increase you choice of toggle switches since the control panel switches only need to switch a fraction of an Amp. You will "make money" just on the savings from wiring cost!  If this is of interest there have been many how-to OGR threads which can be provided.

 

 

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