I built my layout with tubular, for a bunch of reasons that may or may not be relevant to you. Here's why I did what I did.
- My layout combines 0 and Standard Gauge. I wanted a more classic, period look for the Standard Gauge, and that meant tubular.
- Of the three loops of 0 gauge track, the innermost is set up with postwar-style operating accessories. These are a lot easier to install with tubular than with anything else.
- I have a collection of ETS European tinplate, which uses sliders rather than rollers for center-rail power. The squared-off profile of Gargraves or other realistic track tends to wear a groove in the sliders, and they are expensive to replace. Tubular track is much easier on the power pickups.
- I could have done the two wide-radius 0 gauge main lines in realistic track, as I'll be running scale-type equipment on those two lines. However, I opted for a consistent look throughout the layout, so I did those lines in tubular as well. The outermost is 072 and the second is rare 063 track by K-Line.
- Finally, I already had quite a bit of tubular track, which meant the net cost of track was going to be a lot cheaper with tubular than any other option.
My inner loop is the only one that has any switches. The curves are 042 and the switches are low-profile 042 switches by K-Line. These are out of production now. Lionel was making them for a while after K-Line went out of business, but Lionel has ceased production of those switches. I don't know where the tooling wound up. You can still find them on the secondary market.
The most important factor is how you envision your layout. If you are looking at something in the traditional style, i.e. tinplate or postwar, or if you want to use a lot of Lionel operating accessories, tubular may be the way to go. It's also the cheapest and easiest to use. If you are more concerned with realism, Gargraves, Ross, or Atlas would be the way to go.
