I also use the Hankscraft stall-motor devices (also sold as "Switchmaster" brand). To control them and to power the frog and LED indicator lights on the panel, I use 4-pole double-throw toggle switches, which some people will call over-kill, but which in my experience are absolutely dependable in operation. I also power the points by soldering small flexible wires to them that connect to the feed for the adjacent rail under the table. I've never had a failure of a switch machine or loss of power at a frog.
Another little trick is adding a small compression spring and collar with set screw (available for remote control airplane mechanisms) to the rod that projects through the roadbed to control the tie bar for the points. The collar holds the spring against the bottom of the subroadbed, thus holding the operating rod (crank) down against the tie bar. This way, the operating rod can be pulled upward against the spring maybe 1/8" and disengaged from the hole in the tie rod if you want to remove and repair the points, without having to remove and replace the whole crank mechanism (which has some right-angle bends in it, because it acts as a crank that is turned by the rotary stall motor device).
