Bob,
True-Color is a lacquer. Works best with a primer. Jimmy Booth uses lacquer but blasts the surface of the model prior to painting and doesn't use a primer. I prefer Gunze Sangyo 1000 or 1200 thinned 50/50 with regular lacquer thinner as my primer. Most times I thin The True-Color paint by 50/50 also. Like most lacquers it can be thinned at any time......even if it's dried and like all lacquers it dries via evaporation. Older bottles will thicken considerably due to evaporation of the thinner. It probably costs more but I use their thinner for reduction and a mix of acetone & lacquer thinner for clean up. It's basically the same paint as the old Accu+Paint and Star Brand (PBL).
Early Floquil was a lacquer also but by the end it was an enamel. That's why the old formula won't mix with the new. Even the thinner (what they called diosol) changed when formulas were modified.
I have to disagree with Joe on Scale Coat. It's basically an enamel. It doesn't cure by evaporation and once it's cured (even in the bottle) it can't be saved by adding thinner. Enamel also cures better when baked (seems like it continues to flow). Baking doesn't do a thing for lacquer.
I prefer shooting lacquer but Scale-Coat has real advantages also and I use it often also.
Jay
