Thanks again for the compliments and ideas, guys. After some experimenting with interior layouts, I decided to mostly finish the first floor, leave the interior space open, and leave the windows translucent. Decided it wasn't worth the hassle to re-do all the windows, make interior walls, and fully hide all the wiring.
Here's the installed "floor" for the first floor. Just filled the open space with foamboard:to make a continuous floor:
I also took some textured brick sheeting I had leftover from a previous project (large bridge piers) and started patching the area under the door on the wheel side where the stairs were removed. Going for a "newer stone" look, as if the mill had a more recent re-design in this area:
I covered the floor of the mill with a paper wood flooring pattern. That hole in the first pic below is needed for re-assembly and will be patched over when the mill is done. In the pics, you can also see the additional details added inside. This one has a good shot of the "discharge chute"
This shot shows some of the bags stacked up:
Here's the millstone itself. It's the end of a Pringles can with a dowel stuck in it, painted gray and covered with stone paper:
Scale, and a barrel under the chute, in front of the millstone. The light fixtures also now have warm LEDs:
In testing the wheel, I found that the motor spins at 15 RPM at 12V DC. At 8V DC, the wheel slows to a more realistic 10 RPM. In order to keep the whole building at a common input voltage (12V - my layout standard for most structures), I'm using a buck converted to step down the voltage for the wheel to 8V. Here is the converted installed, with quick connects for main power (right) and the wheel motor (left).
This is what I use to test varying voltages from a single device... handy little AC-DC adapter with adjustable output voltage and display.
Here's the bottom section of the mill, showing the revised wiring and interior details:
...and here's the current status of the door patch:
