Yes, the roof beading is to be applied to the roof before sanding to final profile. You will need to notch the top roof overhang a bit to get the beading into proper position. Then remove wood material from the roof ends until it matches the beading. I've seen many of these cars at shows over the years where the modeler did not use the beading, and the result is most often a visibly inaccurate roof end curve profile. Most often the result is a too gradual slope from maximum roof height to car end. One poster here had a great idea I hadn't thought of, which is to use wood filler and build up excess material removed. However, if your car is under initial construction the best bet is to do it right the first time; gradually removing material until you match the Scale City (old Walthers or Keil-Line) roof beading contour. If you are very careful with your Dremel or other power tool you might be able to attack the job more aggressively, but I would suggest doing at least one end with hand tools until you get a feel for what needs to be removed. I also heartily agree with one other suggestion in this thread, which is to use sanding sealer until the grain of the wood is really gone. Another common flaw in models found at shows are cars which have roofs painted with no sign of prior sealing. While these may be retroactively corrected, it is a lot of additional work; and in my opinion lowers the value of the model.
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