I have many Weaver cars. 2, 3, and 4 bay coal hoppers, 3 and 4 bay cylindrical covered hoppers, 40' PS-1 boxcars, and the flatcars with the 35' trailers. The flatcars with trailers all have the Weaver factory diecast roller bearing trucks with the thumbtacks. They track well with the only problem is that a couple of the thumbtacks hung a little low and occasionally contacted the center rail on less than perfect trackwork on our club modules. On the coal hoppers, cylindrical hoppers and boxcars, I have cars with both the delrin trucks/metal wheels and die cast trucks/metal wheels, all with the thumbtacks. All three of these Weaver freight car styles are way too light as delivered. There are different methods to add weight, but I purchase stick on automobile wheel weights in both 1/4 oz and 1/2 oz cut apart strips from Harbor Freight. On the boxcars, I remove the shell and stick the weights on the floor right over the trucks. Covered hoppers I remove the shell and stick the weights in the bottom of the bays and the flats near the floor ends. On the coal hoppers I stick the weights in the bottom of the bays(I have coal loads so the weights are covered). IF you want to run long trains, the cars should be weighted otherwise the cars will want to straight line string on the curves(the sharper the curves the more chance this will happen). As Chris also mentioned above, all the couplers are zip tied shut using the small black electronic zip ties(believe me, when the train is passing by, nobody sees them). Any, using these tricks works for me and the cars track and operate fine whether plastic or die cast trucks. The nice thing about Weaver is that they produced many custom/local road names that were not available anywhere else and still aren't even today.
Nick
