@stan2004 posted:As long as the 12V DC source has its own wall-outlet connection like a wall-wart or an HO transformer output, then:
The key connection is between the DC- (or DC common) and AC common.
As shown, you can separately decide to power the signal with your original 12V AC or with the new 12V DC. If using DC, this assumes the signal's common (black wire) is the minus DC side...typically referred to as a common-cathode LED signal.
Unfortunately, with the relay module shown you still need the 5 cent diode to work with the yellow wire from the FT turnout. While I show a 1N4003 diode, it can be virtually any diode/rectifier. (Note to the technorati; the diode is needed because this relay module type uses an AC-input opto-isolator which would interpret the +5V and -5V signal from the yellow wire as the same!).
Hi Stan,
Well, I got the relay chip and wired everything up as you show in your photo but it didn't work. One signal light remains lit but it doesn't switch when I throw the turnout switch. I tried moving wires around and got the same results. Any idea as to what I did wrong?
