The replacement for the 1033 is the 1044 breaker. Those I don't like because I've seen them melt closed. If the adjustable one fails, it usually trips sooner; arcs towards open if it warps. The insulation board takes a lot of abuse before it gets crispy enough to fear it; but I also keep a direct eye on things and test my breakers a few times a year; big fat wire ....fuses where it's called for.
A 5a fuse/or breaker added sure won't hurt when it counts though.
Each bulb base contact, inner tit or screw base can receive either wire , and ac or dc power (bulb, not led).
Both lamps drawn would light as seen, no problem.
(screw base as chassis mount/chassis ground, or tit riveted to mount to chassis ground, reflects on build of accessories, i.e. bulbs aren't picky!)
The act of "side by side" wiring like that drawn is called parallel wiring. Two bulbs,two legs tied, two loose wires left, is series wiring. With series, 2 6v bulbs don't shine normal until you hit 12v.... "stacked" each bulb uses an equal amount, here it is 6v for normal 6vx2 bulbs=12v many train items use bulbs in series fyi, but parallel is fine and dandy; and my normal choice.
So two really bright bulbs may be dimmed by wiring in series.
(and for fun, a rough rule , A 12v bulb burns half as bright at 6v, but lasts twice as long as normal. A 12v bulb burns twice as bright at 24v but will burn up twice as fast. .... just dropping to 10v on a 12v bulb can greatly extend it's life)... and ac can help too as the voltage +/- changes at 60time per sec. allow some 0v time for cooling and more time at lower voltages overall)
Almost every bulb has an ID number on the glass or base, and or the voltage,watts/amps /m.a. too (look for decimals ) Any two of V,W,A gives the third with chart math. In parallel you just add up bulb amps listed on the bulb# charts to know what amps you draw. (online charts are out there for everything ) In fact there are free electrical calculation sites and apps alike.