@RRDOC posted:Steve
Thanks for sharing your experience. I still wonder if the WS overpriced 24V power supply actually would have solved your problem. I wouldn't think 20v vs. 24v should make a difference. What is the current rating on your power supply? Even a 400ma supply should be enough for the 4 circuits in the building.
Also, I'm curious: Does the problematic ceiling LED lack the Rectifier circuit board that is wired in the other 3 circuits?
I just unboxed my Smith Bros TV and I have powered it up yet. I am considering Bob's approach of using an old laptop power supply, or even converting an old ATX power supply.
Speaking of overpriced power supplies, my Menards York Hotel requires a $20 4.5V, 5Amp power supply. That's why I'm thinking of using an old ATX for my several city blocks of buildings.
Bob
Yeah, the idea that the OEM 24 VDC supply might make everything hunky dory did cross my mind, but 1) I'd first have to buy or borrow one to test the theory, 2) I'd already tested several alternatives to my 20 VDC (as measured) 800 MA supply, all of which also supposedly met their power criteria, without a the slightest sign of improvement, and 3) as soon as I mentioned the alternative power supply, no other explanations would be entertained, a pattern all too familiar to anyone who's ever dealt with tech 'support'. If the Smith Bros. piece truly needs 24 volts, they should have said so IMHO, and they still haven't AFAIK.
Neither the installed LED nor the supplied replacement seem to have any additional hardware, just the stick-on light itself and the wire running to a standard Just Plug plug. Frankly, I'd say just try what you have -- you're in no apparent danger of overpowering anything, and if the problem I experienced was unique to my piece, great. If you *do* have the same problem, see if you can get some free parts (I ended up with a replacement LED and splitter board, and a reel of extension wire) out of them before you tell them of your power supply, because after that, you'll be lucky to get the time of day. Oh, and to solve the dim/ flickering ceiling LED, just wire up an extension from it to a separate Hub circuit, bypassing the installed splitter board, and you should be fine. That's not a perfect solution, especially if it's a long run between the piece and your Hub, and even worse if you don't have an open plug on the Hub.
To be clear, my beef is not really with the piece (I really like it, even with all the hassles) or with WS generally, but with their scapegoating tech support. Arggh . . . 😡
