@Strap Hanger posted:I've changed every PS2 subway I own to BCRs and I highly recommend it (both 5 volt and 3 volt models). I also inspected and changed out a couple of speakers that were starting to flake. I believe they were only in the PS2 5 volt board models, but you should all keep an eye on that for all PS2 subways. When the sound is more abnormally crackly or less understandable, it is a dead giveaway for speaker degradation. They run hot and the speakers tend to flake quicker. Its one of the reasons that the ps2 boards fail - the flakes get loose and cause a short. Also, for all ps2 models, buy some reflective tape (the ones that look like mirrors) and install a strip (or 2) on the inside roofs of the power units (particularly over where the lights are) . Some of the earlier PS2s had "heat shields" pre-installed, others did not. I put it on all PS2 models to give the roofs extra protection. If not, you run the risk of a loose light melting the top of the roof. The heat of the light can cause an annoying bubbling of the plastic. With the metallic tape and heat shield, you will never have to worry about this. I've never experienced a problem since doing this, but I've seen some horror stories for those that didn't PS3 models run much cooler, but I did this with mine as well. Better safe than sorry. And lastly, run your subways at the lowest voltage you can to keep the heat low. I run them at between 15-16 volts when I'm just letting them run in a loop. I use 17 volts when I'm doing station stops with the dcs (the extra voltage is needed for movement after a station stop). Tighter curves may need higher voltage to go when using station stops. Figure out what your minimum is and stick to it if you want to keep your boards cooler and alive longer.
I'm going to do as you suggest, Straphanger.
Re speakers: do you use official MTH speakers, or are their stock model train speakers that can be used? I'll keep an eye on them--thanks for the tip!
