Dave45681 posted:CoastsideKevin posted:.................. In the meanwhile, I have decided to use my 1033 for the accessories (just light towers, lighted buildings and streetlamps for now) and wondering if it will also be beefy enough to provide constant voltage for my 11 022 switches. Any thoughts on that?Thanks again,
KevinDepends on how many lights are included in the "just light towers, lighted buildings, and streetlamps".
If it's enough lights for main street in a small town, it's less current draw than if you are lighting up Broadway in Manhattan.
The O22 switches themselves are not all going to be switched at the same time, most likely, so the key draw that is a continuous load is the light bulbs in the switch stands (and also controllers, assuming you have them hooked up, and it sounds like you would since you are operating conventionally).
Are any of your lights LEDs instead of incandescent? Or all PW style bulbs? LEDs will draw less power.
There is a rule of thumb for estimating how much power a bulb uses, but I am forgetting for sure what it is right now (5 watts maybe? - might be a little high?). Basically you need to add up all your bulbs, then also figure for how much you might need additional for toggling a turnout or 2 (unless you have something elaborate set up, you likely won't do more than 2 simultaneously, I'd assume).
-Dave
Thanks Dave. It isn’t many bulbs, not even Main Street of a small town, more like a side street.
I currently have two 195 towers in the yard, a 394 beacon, four street lights and a 132 station. Hope to add a couple more things, but definitely not going for Broadway.
I thought of LEDs but would like to keep the postwar feel if possible. Also it’s a matter of prioritizing my time and I have more critical things to work on, like laying road bed and permanently affixing track to the floor.
I hooked up the 1033 and it works great so far for the lights. Will see how far I can take it.
