Whoa Nelly, 16 gauge, really ? The wires that are supplied with almost all accessories can't be more than 22 gauge. The longest wire lead won't be any more than ten feet, and that's if I run from one end to the other, which is very unlikely.
Good point. When you look at the charts, multiply the resistance listed by the expected amps on the wire and determine if you can stand the voltage drop. The voltage drop for our low 18 vac circuits are more critical than the 120 vac some of the charts' recommend gauges. In other words, a 2 vac drop on an 18 vac circuit is more significant than a 2 vac drop on a 120 vac circuit.
I just re-wired everything and, I'm not exactly sure what happened, but all of a sudden it's working perfectly. I didn't change anything from the diagram (LED still included). The only thing I can think of was I removed an un-used lock on that was really rusty. Anyway, thanks everyone for your suggestions!
Rick - I would first install a terminal block - run your red and black wires from your accessory transformer to the terminal block (I use 16 gauge wire). Then use 20 or 22 gauge wire and run one lead to the red side and one the other lead to the black side of the terminal block. Do this with all 4 towers. By using the terminal block you can wire other accessories to it with ease. Paul
When you put your tender back together, make certain to insulate that board from the frame. The foam that originally did that job is almost certainly decayed. I like to use a piece of illustration board, with a dab of hot glue to hold the circuit board to the illustration board, and another dab to hold the illustration board to the frame. It only takes a bit. The glue only has to keep the pieces from sliding around. If the board shorts against the frame, the board is often damaged.
Reminds me of old timer electricians checking for live 120vac with their spit wetted fingers tips. (no joke) (I don't know if spellcheckers are in FFox, or hoopla, but this one is awful. When I can out spell a program 4-5 times a day, it's really bad. I write phonetically then correct myself. "Wetted" is a 2cnd grade word. The red line under it; a joke) Heat is easy and cheap never nicks; very very important on small wire. Last winter, I bought a single bulb from R. Shack a bit larger that a...
I use No-Niks strippers. You need a specific model for each wire gauge. I have one for 30 AWG (.014") and 22 AWG (.025"). They are best for stripping Kynar and Teflon coated wires. For softer insulation I have a Paladin Wire stripper. It handles all gauges up to around 12 depending on insulation material and thickness. You can get Asian imported copies but they are not as good as the original. Pete
Ed, I t is very easy to do,heat a sodering iron then hold the wire down & pull the iron toward the end, the insulation will come off very easy,if you go to the Evans Design web site i think they have a video of this,thats where i got it from,hope this helps.
Hi Ed - when I had to do that I used a small piece of sandpaper (220 grit, I think) wrapped around the end of the wire and pulled it through a couple of times. You have to rotate the wire a bit after each stroke to get all of the insulation off. It's not really fun to do, but it does work.
Thank you to everyone for the tips. I think for now I will use the soldering iron. But for the long term I would prefer to get a stripper such as those mentioned. I am making some outside lights for a commercial building using the info from a forum member using parts from plastruct. I want to see what kind of illumination the nano LEDs put out before trying to make 10 of them. Thanks again, Ed
A suggestion. I once bought a stripper that looked just like the Ideal Stripmaster but made in China. It would always nick the wire of gauge matching the label on the stripper hole. The Ideal never has. Google it and you can get the different model numbers for different wire gauges.
I like the solid wire since it is easier to form into a shape and have it stay put. I can route it away from pinch points and it will stay there. I don't worry about the current carrying capability of the stranded wire versus solid wire cause my LEDs are running at such a low frequency (not much of a skin effect). I would advise against using either magnet wire or teflon coated wire in applications where fret abrasion or physical pressure is a concern. But you can always slip shrink tubing...
I asked because I have an old spool of 30 gauge cloth covered solid wire and a spool of 28 gauge plastic covered stranded wire. The stranded roll is silver. I purchased it at a computer show, where I was told it was for wiring backplanes. (Who knows?) I've used some of the 28 gauge for something or other, I have never used the 30 gauge. As far as strippers go: After using a friend's, I purchased a set of Klein strippers. I think they work great. I just stripped a bit off of the ends of my...
Okay, I found the instruction paper in the box, imagine that ! I have wired it up as per the instructions. It came with an OTC contractor, which I used in the installation, again, as per the instructions. I have a Post War ZW transformer. When I place the cattle car on the tracking move it over the OTC contractor, the coral vibrates even when the accessory switch is not in the ON position. I get no action on the cattle car. When I press the accessory switch, the cattle, in the coral, move...
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