Tagged With "failure"

Topic

Atlas O Switch Failures

heiliner ·
I have just had an Atlas O 054 left-hand switch fail. It's not the electro magnet (switch machine) but the underside embedded wiring that transfers power on down the track. They seem to fatigue over time and break. The worst part it is in a blocked switching yard area meaning a lot of track has to be lifted. Has anyone had much luck powering the dead track with another set of power shoes and leaving the broken Atlas O switch in place? OR do I just bite the bullet and find another Atlas O 054...
Reply

Re: Atlas O Switch Failures

gunrunnerjohn ·
I've soldered to the "Alien metal" of the Atlas switch, I just scrape all the blackening off it. I always thought it was the same as the rails. We had a bunch of older Atlas switches that the flimsy thread burned out and we had to jumper. Since I didn't want to lift them, I just run a wire under the table between the two points. I use a heavy enough wire so I only have to do it once.
Reply

Re: Atlas O Switch Failures

Jan ·
Atlas corrected the wiring problems as well as other with the second (?) release of switches. You can identify them because on the box it says "UV protected". It is also cast into the underside of the plastic ties. The "problems" with Atlas switches comes up frequently. It is a rehash of problems from many years ago. As long as you buy new production you will be fine. Be wary of buying used and off ebay. Check for UV protection. Trainworld has O54 switches for $80. Jan
Reply

Re: Atlas O Switch Failures

CNJ #1601 ·
Robert, I would also like to know the answer to this question! I picked up the handout pictured below from the Atlas folks at a train show last January. As you can see, it highlights all of the planned changes to the design and production of the Atlas switches, most of which were supposed to address the known "issues". Well, the switches are finally starting to arrive here in the States...and I would love to know if any or all of these improvements were in fact made. I'm really hoping that...
Reply

Re: Atlas O Switch Failures

rtr12 ·
Thanks for the tip on the UV marking on the newer boxes. I agree with you on all counts. As you say, I think a lot of folks still refer to problems with the original releases of the Atlas switches. I have not had any problems with their newer switches.
Reply

Re: Atlas O Switch Failures

gunrunnerjohn ·
Replacing all the older switches isn't really practical unless we find a Sugar Daddy .
Reply

Re: Atlas O Switch Failures

Roger L. ·
Yes, we have had several of those wires underneath the Atlas O switches fail on our club layout. We installed most of these switches circa 2002 when Atlas was using thin wires (they use thicker wires or bus bars on their switches now). Our normal solution is to solder a short wire from the center rail on the connecting track to the switch rail. However, the center rail on the switch is made of some alien metal that will not hold solder. So what I have had to do was to drill a small hole...
Reply

Re: Atlas O Switch Failures

heiliner ·
Thanks Roger. Are you part of the group that runs the trains at Balboa Park? If so, I'm the guy that donated the track cleaning cars to the exhibit. I checked the Atlas On Line Store and they have a switch in stock, probably close to $125.00 with shipping. That's a killer. I'll try to repair the switch. Does the break occur between the center track and the frog? And I know, I've tried soldering the tracks before without any luck.
Reply

Re: Atlas O Switch Failures

Roger L. ·
Yes I am part of the Balboa Park group, and thanks for the track cleaning cars. The alien metal part is the black center rail as shown by the arrows: The problem is the jumper wires on the underside of the switch which will sometimes burn out: The ideal solution (if you can remove the switch) is to unscrew the jumper cables, drill a bigger screw hole, and attach a larger gauge wire that you can connect directly to your power bus under the layout. However, if you can't remove the switch, you...
Reply

Re: Atlas O Switch Failures

JohnGaltLine ·
I can't find anything to suggest the alien metal 3rd rail is anything but the same nickle-silver used in the other rails. It seems the blackening process just makes the metal not want to take solder. Has anyone tried taking a file, sand paper, or small dremmel tool grinding wheel to the side of the rail to remove the coating? JGL
Reply

Re: Atlas O Switch Failures

ROGERW ·
What I've done to my switches when I have this problem is to solder the connecting center rails together. You need a high powered solder gun that gets the metal very hot, very fast to make this work. Once I solder both rails together, I then sand the solder down real smooth so that the rollers on the engines can roll over the center rails smoothly...................Roger
Reply

Re: Atlas O Switch Failures

ROGERW ·
If you'll look closely at the center rails on the switches in the yard area, you can see where I solder the center rails together............rogerw.
Reply

Re: Atlas O Switch Failures

Mike CT ·
Note that the metal cast V-shaped rail section center of the switch, as mentioned does not accept solder well. I have had success removing the blackening material carefully allowing the copper clad under the black to remain. The copper clad makes soldering a bit easier. Note the copper on this switch, sand too much, and the copper color goes away. This part of the switch does not appear to be nickel silver, which accepts solder relatively easy, may be, made of a cast steel, with the copper...
Reply

Re: Atlas O Switch Failures

Keystoned Ed ·
We have a similar conductivity issue with "dead" AtlasO 2 rail turnout frogs. There is a manufacturing/design weakness with AtlasO turnouts - the electrical path between the cast rail/frog pieces and the metal feeders molded into the plastic ties sometimes fail. To prevent the problem I solder feeder wires directly to the cast frog. It isn't easy to solder to the cast metal but with enough heat and flux it can be done. As others have pointed it is important to shine up the metal on the...
Reply

Re: Atlas O Switch Failures

Modelrailroader ·
I was just about to ask, how do you prevent the plastic ties from melting when you use so much heat from a soldering iron? Has anyone had problems with the plastic ties melting right away? Last question, do the current run of turnouts from China correct any of these problems?
Reply

Re: Atlas O Switch Failures

rtr12 ·
Forum member Ingeniero No1 (Alex) came up with a great way to power Atlas track without soldering. It is described here Hidden Pass Junction RR in his build thread (about half way down on page 2 of the thread). He even gives us the drill bit size, wire size and screws he used, he's done all the head scratching for us and was kind enough to share the information. All you will need to do is figure out how to hide the wires. One way would be to go under the table and come back up. I believe you...
Reply

Re: Atlas O Switch Failures

Roger L. ·
Glad to see some of you were able to solder wire to "V" rail. Depending on the location of the failed switch on our club layout, we were most times not in a good position to try hard enough. Also, we were always afraid of melting the plastic spikes. Because if we botched the job, then we would have to replace the switch, which was a lot more work. The "drill and fill" method I described above was relatively quick to do and allowed us to use a lower power soldering iron. I really like Atlas O...
Reply

Re: Atlas O Switch Failures

prrhorseshoecurve ·
Also, we were always afraid of melting the plastic spikes. So what if you did? Just use HO spikes and some KRazy Glue and a #75drill bit and you are set!
Reply

Re: Atlas O Switch Failures

heiliner ·
The photos and repair suggestions are outstanding. I ended up replacing the switch which was in a yard, a nightmare because of all the connecting switches. I am going to try to power the frog by drilling a couple of micro holes and running a jumper direct to the frog from the center rail. On the downside after I installed the new switch I somehow jammed a Z1000 switch motor. The motor survive but the Z two button controlled fried. I asked Zander but haven't heard back......do you know if an...
Reply

Re: Atlas O Switch Failures

WP ·
The black finish on the center rails of our Gargraves track and Ross switches is also very hard to solder. We did something similar to what gunnerjohn did. I use a small narrow abrasive bit in my Dremel. I put the rounded tip on the side of the rail (flat side area between top and bottom of rail) and then grind off a quarter inch or so of the black finish. Then it is easy to solder. John
Reply

Re: Atlas O Switch Failures

Engineer-Joe ·
I get a kick out of reading some posts of failures. Of course they all blame certain things. I wouldn't expect my switches to carry the current for a full large consist on my RR, while I have high amp draws. I would run my own jumpers at the least. Most of my blocks are created so the switches are at the very ends. They may carry the current of a single engine passing over. They don't have to carry the whole train's draw. I don't think it's just one manufacturer's switches. I don't think...
Reply

Re: RS2 sound failure in Lionel Hudson "Yellow Belly" 6-18043

PaperTRW ·
A few comments that might help. The first red flag is between Steps 2 and 3. The power provided to the RailSounds system through the tether to the C&O tender is right off the pick-ups of the locomotive without going through any electronics. Did you try to see if the sound system would work in conventional mode? If the sound system powers-up in conventional but doesn't do anything in command, then the LCRU could possibly be the issue. (In this case, the sound system would be waiting for a...
Reply

Re: RS2 sound failure in Lionel Hudson "Yellow Belly" 6-18043

Nick12DMC ·
I am not familiar with the engine but did you check the tether wiring between the loco and tender? If you need to replace the LCRU use a ERR AC Commander. It is cheaper and allows 100 speed steps. Maybe worse case gut the electronics and upgrade to the AC Commander and Railsounds Commander which is Railsounds 4 or 5 based. Nick
Reply

Re: RS2 sound failure in Lionel Hudson "Yellow Belly" 6-18043

JeffreyJ ·
Yes, the tether was tested and passed. Moved all the wires in a circle with a VOM attached; all the wires had continuity. If a wire was bad it would have shown. Where would I get an AC Commander and AC Commander sound card?
Reply

Re: RS2 sound failure in Lionel Hudson "Yellow Belly" 6-18043

JeffreyJ ·
the pod and speaker were tested in the working commodore and both worked. The tether was tested with a VOM and passed. I did NOT try placing the system into conventional mode and testing the sound board. In conventional mode, is the LCRU unit bypassed?
Reply

Re: RS2 sound failure in Lionel Hudson "Yellow Belly" 6-18043

Chuck Sartor ·
Not likely the LCRU. The Commodore tender and the Yellow belly tenders are not wired the same. The Commodore tender has a four prong plug and the C&O has six. While both tenders have the same plugs for the circuit board, they connect to different pins in the tether. I highly suspect the power and ground pins. The guys at Lionel service should be able to supply you with a modified wiring diagram with the correct pin-outs from the six prong plug to the 4 prong plugs. Once you get that...
Reply

Re: RS2 sound failure in Lionel Hudson "Yellow Belly" 6-18043

Nick12DMC ·
Here you go. http://www.electricrr.com/ Sounds like Chuck has the answer with the different pins in the tether. Nick
Reply

Re: RS2 sound failure in Lionel Hudson "Yellow Belly" 6-18043

PaperTRW ·
You essentially eliminate the LCRU as a cause by working in conventional mode. Chuck, I agree with you that I don't believe it's the LCRU, and that the tenders are not wired the same. One correction though, is that the Vanderbilt has a six-pin tether and the C&O has eight. The wiring diagrams for the C&O locomotive are here , and the tender here . Scroll down to the last page of each file. The RS2.5 board gets its power from the black and black/red-striped wires. As you can see, it's...
Reply

Re: RS2 sound failure in Lionel Hudson "Yellow Belly" 6-18043

Marty Fitzhenry ·
I have that engine I converted to DCS and can motor. I saved all the parts in the event someone may want to make it original. If you need any pictures or to borrow parts let me know. Everything is good as I found one NIB to work with.
Reply

Re: RS2 sound failure in Lionel Hudson "Yellow Belly" 6-18043

Chuck Sartor ·
TRW, you are correct, it is 6 and 8 pins/socket. Memory failed me there.
Reply

Re: RS2 sound failure in Lionel Hudson "Yellow Belly" 6-18043

JeffreyJ ·
Hello Everybody: It is the LCRU that is bad. Connected the sound card directly to track power and it works great with both the Commodore and Hudson sound chips. When the sound card is plugged into the tether it does not work in either conventional or command. Placed a VOM on pins 1 and 2 (they supply the sound card power) from the engine and received a reading of about 12v in conventional. I suspect that the current output is the issue most likely caused by a failed card or an aged solder...
Reply

Re: RS2 sound failure in Lionel Hudson "Yellow Belly" 6-18043

Marty Fitzhenry ·
Send me a picture of what you want to martyfitz44@aol.com .
Reply

Re: RS2 sound failure in Lionel Hudson "Yellow Belly" 6-18043

PaperTRW ·
Hold-up for a minute... unless I'm reading something wrong, what you've said doesn't make sense. 1) You've proven that the sound system works when connected to track power. That's good, as it eliminates things like the speaker and volume pot. 2) It doesn't work in conventional or command when connected to the tether, but you're getting a reading of 12v in conventional on pins 1 and 2. If your track power is also 12 volts, then that's good. Track power and the voltage on pins 1 and 2 should...
Reply

Re: RS2 sound failure in Lionel Hudson "Yellow Belly" 6-18043

GGG ·
If you definitely had smoke come out of tender, the RS board had to have some damage. Did you test the damaged board in your good engine? Just to ensure it was bad. Regardless, you know the replacement board works with your old chips, so now why not work in the engine. It very well can be the LCRU. The RS May sense command mode and stay quiet, but not have serial data getting to the RS board to operate it. So, swap LCRU from the engine. If it works the LCRU is in fact bad. If not, there must...
Reply

Re: RS2 sound failure in Lionel Hudson "Yellow Belly" 6-18043

fl9turbo2 ·
Sorry to hear about what happened I have one and have been hoping that lionel will do a legacy version so it sits on my shelf waiting for its legacy brother to arrive, Good luck with yours
Reply

Re: Atlas O Switch Failures

heiliner ·
Just so you know I got an email from Dennis Zander who offered to replace the failed controller switch on the DZ1000. That's the really fun thing about model railroading, the people in the hobby are all so nice.
Reply

Re: MTH-Coupler failure Degraded Metal

Überstationmeister ·
It is called Zincpest. 1. This is a known issue for several MTH cars and pops up from time to time. 2. You can replace the release armature lever. 3. MTH does sell the part, but I am not sure about the number (DD-13?). 4. Zincpest is a casting impurity, it can not be prevented from progressing. 5. The rest of the truck is usually good.
Reply

Re: MTH-Coupler failure Degraded Metal

leavingtracks ·
tplee.....this is a problem that has been talked about some time back. There are other metal problems beginning to show up over time. A fellow OGR member and I were talking last night and he has this problem on one of his locomotive frames! The paint and metal are beginning to flake. In my case, I have a MTH Bigboy that is showing this problem on one of the steam cylinders. So....we may have a lurking problem that is starting to rear its head....?? Alan
Reply

Re: MTH-Coupler failure Degraded Metal

tplee ·
Thanks very much for the replies. Buzz
Reply

Re: MTH-Coupler failure Degraded Metal

D500 ·
Yeah, had an MTH truck with this - different parts, same problem. Surprising in this era. I do not think - oh, I hope that I am right - that this is a coming epidemic. That would be really, really sad. Everything MTH turning to dust. Nothing left but diesels. Ew.
Reply

Re: MTH-Coupler failure Degraded Metal

DMASSO ·
My K -line EP 5 had the truck assembly break apart. I can get a new part but it defeats the original bargain club price.
Reply

Re: MTH-Coupler failure Degraded Metal

AGHRMatt ·
Not unique to MTH. I've seen it on all of the brands. The zinc used is an alloy and sometimes they get a bad batch. It just starts to disintegrate over time. Don't know if it's a moisture or dryness issue or a continuing chemical reaction as every piece I've had this occur with has been stored in its original box with the dessicant packs. I know that they use zinc plates on bridges to prevent the load-bearing members from oxidizing. The zinc "sacrifices itself" in place of the steel. Maybe...
Topic

RS2 sound failure in Lionel Hudson "Yellow Belly" 6-18043

JeffreyJ ·
The RS2 in my Lionel “yellow belly” 490 Hudson (6-18043) engine quit working. While running, the sound slowly faded , went to static then stopped. There was a wisp of smoke from the tender and the smell of burnt electronics. The command board still operates the engine. Tried the following to restore the sound feature. Purchased new sound board, had to get one for a commodore Vanderbilt (6-18045). The description on the burnt and new board are the same; 589-699 Railsounds 2.5 rev 1.
Topic

MTH-Coupler failure Degraded Metal

tplee ·
MTH couplers are failing from what appears to be the the same issue as pre-war engines had with cracking and expanding metal.1.  Is this a common issue with the MTH metal lever that releases coupler. How big of a problem is this.  Is mine an...
Reply

Re: RS2 sound failure in Lionel Hudson "Yellow Belly" 6-18043

JeffreyJ ·
Examined the LCRU board with a bright light and magnifying glass. One of the components has melted; the surrounding board is burnt and a diode has a burn mark at one end. The LCRU board definitely needs to be replaced. Maybe you have some parts that I need for another engine. I need a smoke level bracket (610-8045-505), smoke manifold (600-8306-214), and a smoke lever assembly (610-8045-216). The LCRU board and manifold are still available but the other parts are not. These are for a...
Reply

Re: RS2 sound failure in Lionel Hudson "Yellow Belly" 6-18043

gunrunnerjohn ·
You could always convert it to fan driven smoke, that solves the problem of trying to find those parts.
Reply

Re: RS2 sound failure in Lionel Hudson "Yellow Belly" 6-18043

shawn ·
Are you sure that you didn't accidentally reverse the tether connections... i had a Boston and Albany steamer with tmcc that came out after the yellowbelly. The tenter connecters if I remember we're not keyed....you had to align by th missing pin or connector....I reversed the wires accidentally. Although, it didn't take the sound board. It sure did damage the Lcru.
Reply

Re: RS2 sound failure in Lionel Hudson "Yellow Belly" 6-18043

GGG ·
Sorry I have an LCRU2 but do not have the other parts. G
Reply

Re: RS2 sound failure in Lionel Hudson "Yellow Belly" 6-18043

PaperTRW ·
If he needs the LCRU from the Yellowbelly, that takes an LCRU1. TRW
Reply

Re: RS2 sound failure in Lionel Hudson "Yellow Belly" 6-18043

JeffreyJ ·
I took a close look at the LCRU board and is has melted components and a burnt circuit board. It was hard to see without a really bright light and magnifying glass. The circuit board is burnt in two different places. One is by Q4 and the other is by a diode. Could not read the number, it was burnt off. Whoever said this is a LCRU version 1 board is correct. The Commodore Vanderbilt has the LCRU 2 board. The board is still available from Lionel.
OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Suite 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
330-757-3020

www.ogaugerr.com
×
×
×
×
×