I want to replace the couplers on my 3rd Rail Lehigh Valley John Wilkes Coaches. The OEM couplers do not open while in motion but they don't keep the cars together either. I haven't been able to figure out why the geometry of the couplers allow them to slip apart. Can anyone suggest a coupler that will work well on 3rd Rail coaches? Thanks Rev Richie
Since I don't have the funds to convert couplers right now,nor are shelf couplers available,so I'm stuck with the Atlas 2 rail couplers. My problem is they won't couple unless slammed together unprototypically unless they are coupling to a cut of 6-10 cars. I used pencil graphite on some knuckles to no avail,so does anyone have solutions for this problem? "Slip plate," used on older farm hay bailers is used to make hay bales slide well is the only other idea I have,but this is sold in...
I am hoping for feedback on methods of adjusting or modifying these cars so that I can use them on my layout consistently. I would think there should be some approach that would eliminate the issues I am having. So far I have not been able to do so. I would appreciate any advice that OGR members or The Atlas Co. may have. These are the only cars that I own that have an issue with, on my layout. It seems to be an issue with all of them at different times. I have had no problems with the Atlas...
I received MTH passenger cars for Christmas this year, and am very pleased with how they've been so far. Only issue I've had is a malfunctioning coupler. The coupler can often stay closed under normal operation (although it has opened a few times on curves), but will come open if put under sudden or above average (but still reasonable) pressure. Any suggestions on what to do? I've looked to replace it with a dummy, but it is attached to the entire truck mechanism. Will I have to replace...
Just a quick update, I cut the mounts of the air hose that came with the original boxing glove and glued it to the side of the draft gear box, also cut off the coupler's magnetic trip pin. I may also apply some of the "primer" that comes with Super Glue's "Plastics Bonding Kit" to the end of the air hose so I can paint it silver. I will also apologize for not having a picture of it. : /
I just finished installing a scale coupler and fix pilot on my Atlas O Erie Built. Yesterday I put on the included pilot as it came with the cover over the coupler hole, but I realized it stuck out way too far, and we run them in freight service so it shouldn't be on there anyway. Today my dad ran up to the hobby store and got a pack of Kadees to put on it. I removed the screw that holds the cover onto the pilot. I then built up the mounting pad with three sheets of styrene, not sure how...
That's the plan! Where is the best place could I order one? I was just going to look at the exploded parts diagram of my new ES44s and order one from Lionel, but I am sure there are better ones out there.
I usually grab one from my parts bin. When I convert cars to Kadees I save all those air hoses. I like the MTH air hoses because they are much thinner and have a nicer glad hand than the Atlas part. I also use PSC air hoses and glad hands with real rubber hose... but usually its the MTH air hose.
Mike, ignore him, your post/topic is fine like it is. About the only thing you can do if you ever have a truck mounted electrocoupler pocket that needs to be replaced is to buy a new truck, I don't know if the piece that has the pocket on it can be bought separately though.
You don't "cut-off" electrocouplers. They are disconnected and removed from the trucks. Kadees are normally mounted to the engine bodies which may have been modified. Most manufacturers have parts available that would allow you to return the engines to their original condition. What engine are you wanting to unconvert? Jan
While the electro-coupler can be removed, the coupler box, if there is one, usually gets in the way of the Kadee coupler box and has to be cut off, usually with a Dremel. Once cut off I suppose if you still had the box it could be glued back on with JB Weld, but all that I have cut off get tossed in the trash.
Hi Bob thanks, I did the same thing. I talked to Doug (Laidoffsick) before I did it. It turned out great, but now Im trading it and the guy who wants it was wondering if they could be put back on. I didn't think so but told him I would ask around on the forum.
Father.Dragon, I never said they had electro-couplers, I am not criticizing lionel couplers. IMO I think that Kadee Couplers look more realistic then do the claw couplers. I do not judge others on there thoughts. Here is the deal, I am trading this engine cause I want to keep my collection to MTH engines. I don't mind Lionel rolling stock cause everything I get or have get's Kadee couplers. If you wish to jump my A** over this then maybe I should delete my post. But thank you for your thoughts.
First off, welcome to the Forum!! I have the same issue (with the same cars). I used small orthodontics (braces) rubber bands nestled in the coupler to hold the hidden coupler release tab forward and that seems to have helped with mine. I haven't seen if it works with my 15 car consist, but it works fine with the 9 cars I currently have on the layout.
I just used the method so I can operate the car with the rest of the train until I head over to my local train store. I'm going to buy either new couplers, or send it back to get it fixed. Thanks for the reply!
Most of the first generation PRR road diesels were initially fitted with coupler covers to minimize issues when colliding with vehicles. Around the 1954/5 time frame they began to be removed as the units were shopped. I agree that the coupler covers on the FM diesels are particularly clunky looking. That's a good looking railroad Steven Michael, you are very fortunate to have a true SPF for a Dad and mentor. Ed Rappe
It is called Zincpest. 1. This is a known issue for several MTH cars and pops up from time to time. 2. You can replace the release armature lever. 3. MTH does sell the part, but I am not sure about the number (DD-13?). 4. Zincpest is a casting impurity, it can not be prevented from progressing. 5. The rest of the truck is usually good.
When you block a person, they can no longer invite you to a private message or post to your profile wall. Replies and comments they make will be collapsed/hidden by default. Finally, you'll never receive email notifications about content they create or likes they designate for your content.
Note: if you proceed, you will no longer be following .