I am replacing the front coupler on a Lionel Legacy SD40 item 6-84260 I received the parts from Lionel but there was no documentation or exploded view that showed the proper repair/replacement. I did find the parts diagram on Lionels Website but it does not show the installation - there is a small bracket that sits on two pegs and then the coupler is fitted on the bracket - there is a spring that fits in the small bracket - but i am not sure how to set it on the bracket - so i was wondering...
I have some couplers which are a little "stubborn" closing - I need to add a little "0-5-0" to the rear of the car I'k trying co couple to. I've searched the suggestions on the forum, and one of the recommendations I see is applying graphite to reduce the sliding friction. I'm wondering if anyone has tried neolube liquid graphite lubricant and, if so, did it help and do you recommend it?
This 1977 uncataloged Lionel Service Station set has been stored in my house- -a closet in a heated/cooled dry room- -for nearly 40 years. Highlights: One #6-8766 powered RDC-4 baggage/mail car One #6-8768 non-powered RDC-1 passenger car Both units are illuminated and feature a cosmetically flawless silver exterior with crisp blue lettering The powered unit is functional- -it ran smoothly shortly after being purchased [see below] Both cars are equipped with operating metal knuckle couplers...
I have a modern Lionel Berkshire 6-11389 that I have been running with no problems for over a year. In the last month the coupler on the tender has been randomly opening. I haven't changed anything on the layout or the consist running modern cars (3 log, 3 coal, 1 searchlight and 1 caboose). I can try to pull the coupler open manually and I cannot. This happens on regular track not switch tracks, etc. It occurs on straight and curved sections (I am using Ross track). The coupler works...
I’m a real new year to this. I unearthed my old Lionel train from a box when my mother moved into nursing home. I have a 1666 locomotive , not sure tender number, 2679 boxcar with electric coupler (box coupler) 2682 caboose with electric coupler, and a couple more. Got most everything up and running, looking for info on maintaining and repairing couplers, missing the top of box on one car, also can I lubricate (oil) the solenoid that uncoupled cars. any advice or source of literature would...
Well I guess it all started while transversing over my #117 post war switches. Apparently the rear loco pickup roller came up to a chassis screw and welded itself to it. Bad location,minimal clearance. This in turn melted red wire in teather end to end. After repair I have lost backup lite and electrocoulper still opens crossing my 711 switches. I need the factory reset code to continue, any help is appreciated.
a coupling on Lionel Legacy CSX SD40 doesn't work and the wire is broke at the coil - i was trying to find a replacement - the part number is 680-2274-550. i tried the Lionel Website but it is unavailable - any help is greatly appreciated
The freight trailer B&LET E-2 received its radial USRA coupler, new from Q car...Still a lot of work to do on the trailer and it isn't a priority around here,,,,yet.... The radial couplers work well and I would highly recommend them; much less agitata than working on the PSC radials couplers
I recently purchased a set of K-Line B&O 2 bay hoppers, they have scale knuckle couplers on them. I found that these couple to MTH non-scale couplers with no issues. Because of this I would like to find out if they are Kaydee or another brand so I can buy more sets. Thanks for any responses.
Always wanted a train coupler on my trailer hitch and decided to try 3D printing one out of ABS. Was going to fill, sand and paint it, but after doing a check fit on the truck, I just didn't want to pull it off. We'll see if it holds up to the weather.
I was checking out the new train, adding cars one at a time, and this coupler immediately broke on the second of the four passenger cars. I can't find any information in terms of parts on the Lionel site for this car. Both the knuckle and the "body" of the coupler are broken at the "ears" where the rivet goes. Do you think there's a chance I can get and replace only the coupler, i.e. the two cast parts that are broken?
Does anyone using Kadee body mount couplers on rolling stock have problems using #4 turnouts as crossovers or in yards? I am working on my 3-rail layout plans with RR-Track to use only Ross turnouts. I am planning to use Ross #4 crossovers (RCS model #175) on the mainline and Ross #4 turnouts (RCS model #200 & #201) in the yards, which will create my only "S" curves. I will use some Ross O72 turnouts, but not as "S" curves. My minimum radius is 36" (O72). Ultimately, I would like to...
I just purchased a Lionel RS-3 6-18805 from E-Bay. The engine arrived with a broken draw bar right at the eye where it swivels. I have searched the various data bases (OTTP, Hennings, Tandem, and Breussuer) and can't seam to find the part number or a place to buy it. Very frustrating. I hope someone will chime in and help me locate this part. Thanks
Over the last year I've upgraded 3 of my MTH engines with the 3/2 upgrade kit. In every case the couplers were upgraded. What's the difference in the Proto 1, 2 and the 3/2 upgrade couplers? Is it Electrical or Mechanical? Just curious. Mike
Just got my CSX office cars and put them on the track. They look great behind the CSX F40PH. The problem I am having is that the couplers would keep coming unhooked and I thought it was a problem with the couplers until I noticed that the spring couplers t hat are to extend when going around curves do not always extend and that is what is binding the cars. I am running them on 072 curves. Not sure if all the cars are doing this yet but some of them do. Seems like it gets stuck in the center...
I have a Lionel FT diesel locomotive (Polar Express 10th Anniversary ) that has little to any tolerance for for clearing adjoining pieces of Fastrack unless perfectly flush. The front coupler plunger(?) hangs very low and whenever the join between Fastrack pieces are even the slightest bit off, the train comes to a slamming halt as the plunger hits the lip of the track. You can see how close it is to the center rail in the photo and also where the paint has come off the plunger from hitting...
I would like to assemble one or two prewar sets. I have thus far the 224E and 226E with the matching tenders. I think I am seeing two different types of pre war coupler - one I think is called a "box" coupler and I'm not sure what the other is called. At least it appears different and maybe earlier. I'm not sure if its compatible with the box coupler or even when it was used. I think there is an adapter of some kind to go from box coupler to knuckle. Thanks! AL
That's the plan! Where is the best place could I order one? I was just going to look at the exploded parts diagram of my new ES44s and order one from Lionel, but I am sure there are better ones out there.
I usually grab one from my parts bin. When I convert cars to Kadees I save all those air hoses. I like the MTH air hoses because they are much thinner and have a nicer glad hand than the Atlas part. I also use PSC air hoses and glad hands with real rubber hose... but usually its the MTH air hose.
Most of the first generation PRR road diesels were initially fitted with coupler covers to minimize issues when colliding with vehicles. Around the 1954/5 time frame they began to be removed as the units were shopped. I agree that the coupler covers on the FM diesels are particularly clunky looking. That's a good looking railroad Steven Michael, you are very fortunate to have a true SPF for a Dad and mentor. Ed Rappe
Hey John... This seems to be a common problem on 3rd Rail Coaches. You can replace them with Weaver passenger trucks or glue a piece of plastic to the coupler knuckle to prevent them from slipping apart. The guys at 3rd Rail were not very helpful and would not replace the trucks.
This problem existed on earlier heavyweight P70 plastic passenger car runs from GGD. While the cars would not necessarily uncouple, the couplers would move downward thus separating the train when a heavy load was put on the train ie a good number of cars, yet the couplers remained in the closed position. Make sense? Hot Water has a good solution to this problem - use Kadee couplers.
Thank you, Railride for all that info. I got the 24 pack cuz I was looking for a source of inexpensive flat cars in quantity. Gotta love what Menard's has been doing lately. I am repainting the cars for my military train. LBR will supply the decals. Now all I need is a source for M4 Sherman tanks in quantity that don't cost an arm and leg.
When you block a person, they can no longer invite you to a private message or post to your profile wall. Replies and comments they make will be collapsed/hidden by default. Finally, you'll never receive email notifications about content they create or likes they designate for your content.
Note: if you proceed, you will no longer be following .