I want to run the 497 coaling station independently of track power. I know the wiring diagram for fixed voltage operation as outlined in the manual. My track power will be an MTH Z-1000. I don't want the Z-1000 track power to have anything to do with the operation of the coaling station. I will be using Williams dump cars which will dump using track power, but I want the coaling station to be powered by a separate AC power source, like an old KW. My question is this, since the track touches...
As you can see, I have a mix of trains. I was wondering, if I have a single loop with sidings can I run a conventional set and a controlled set on the same (loop) layout. This is what I envision. MTH or LionChief on siding, not moving, Conventional in neutral on second siding. Start conventional adjusting speed by transformer, then park conventional back on siding in neutral and start up MTH or LionChief. Thanks, EddieZ
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I'm planing out my layout and what it's gonna cost to buy all the track I need and i need several os Atlas O's 1 1/4 track section. The one thing I'm not sure about is on Atlas's website ther list the track as "1-1/4” Straight (4pcs./blister)" Do they mean there's four of the 11/4" tracks or that there's 4 pecies for the section?
I would like to try installing diodes in my O-22 switch lanterns and controllers, to drop the voltage and prolong bulb life as per servoguy's postings on the three-rail forum. Problem is, when I research them what's left of my brain clogs up,...
Looking at the fastback catalog, I see where trackside accessories can be plugged directly into ports on the side of the track. Wouldn't this mean that the accessory works only when track power is present ?
Hello, Recent purchase of a boxed Hafner Overland Flyer Set that is Pre-war. Not sure if this is all original, but the lithographs and paint are very clean. Curious to know if this is a true box set. Tender livery is Illinois Central, and...
I'm sorry if anyone is annoyed by me repeatedly posting question topics. What I'd like to know is if there is a roster of sorts out there for those cowl and cab units that are preserved on active shortlines or tourist railroads, plus a roster of the CN and CP cowl units.
DP, If the wireless accessory is attached directly to the FasTrack it needs Track power to operate, the same way your FTCC wireless Switches need track power to operate via remote control from your TMCC Cab1 or Legacy Cab2. PCRR/Dave
I'm not versed on the Legacy or TMCC systems. On strictly conventional layouts, wiring an accessory to track power not only drains power from the train, but causes you to have the loco in neutral when operating that accessory. So most, if not all operators choose to run the accessories from either fixed voltage posts or in the case of transformers like the ZW, use one of the throttles that isn't powering a track. So how does the fastback accessory take-off work ?
The 6-81313 does use track power. LionChief is constant voltage AC or DC and draw little power (2A). The new accessories require low amperage also. The 6-81314 provides a separate power option with a switch and port to connect a LionChief Power Pack. The plug and play accessories can be wired and activated the way that you are used to doing it.
I don't have, or at present plan to have, any of the new P&P accessories, so I haven't been following the operational aspects of these items. I have plenty of the older versions for now. However, I know that different accessories often operate best at different voltages, so for best operation it is preferable for each accessory to have its own variable power supply. I have about five old small starter-set transformers, and a ZW, all of which can be used to power individual accessories at...
<<<I'm curious to know how these various new P&P accessories are controlled to achieve their optimum individual power levels. >>> The new accessories, mostly, have small DC can motors and circuit boards. I've found they operate the same way at 12 or any voltage up to maximum. Once they get operating voltage, increasing the voltage has no effect on the accessory. Fine tuning not required.
Yes, they don't build 'em like they used to and in this case that's a good thing. Those accessories that require tweaking voltages for proper operation were crude designs using crude manufacturing techniques and crude materials. Modern accessories require no such "tuning" or the pile of transformers and rats' nest of wire that comes with it. You'd think everyone would agree that it's a "good" thing. Apparently it's okay for a train accessory to be broken out of the box? What happened to, "I...
I agree. The older accessories do require differing voltages depending on the accessory. The newer ones with can motors are an improvement however, as Matt has pointed out. That said, having had a layout full of post war operating accessories at one time, it took me quite some time, usually weeks, to fine tune the voltage and accessory so that anyone visiting my layout could operate it.
Hi Denny – Thanks for the kind words on one of my You Tube Videos. It means a lot to all You Tube Creators. The lash-up procedures are fun to set up and operate. The head light in the second A unit will come on, when the lash-up is placed into reverse. This short video will demo the head light procedures. Gary - Cheers from The Detroit and Mackinac Railway
Best example is the Lionchief FT ABA set. You have to buy the B unit separately which is powered, but it will run off the same remote as the powered A unit. Trainroomgary has a great review of that. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X1IqzW9IL7U
Basically, what I was aiming to do by starting this thread was to create a "bucket list," if you will, of all the cab and cowl units currently in service on a shortline, tourist, class 1, or regional railroad, with the ultimate goal of capturing them on digital video for my Youtube channel and in digital stills. The unfortunate fact of the matter is, as Lucas alluded to earlier, is that commuter railroads, regionals, and class 1s are slowly phasing out their classic cowl units (witness the...
Ask the guy who has been updating the steamlocomotive.info site and you'll find that's a never-ending job to keep that list correct. And it's a given there are way more cab units than steam locomotives out there...
About the same spot the DCRU is in. Need to get speaker in fuel tank if possible. Heat sink for square rectifier mount same, but you may need to drill holes for the brass mount attached to the regulator at the other end. G
Can you get a pic of the bottom of the new dcru ? Orange (center rail ) and brown (outside rail)wires were at one time QSI colours. However you may have a little more than that to worry about . There's probably a voltage regulator that must be insulated from the chassis. It's also part of the mounting bracket on some engines.
DCRU = DC current Reverse Unit. That is the bottom board. A full-wave bridge rectifier sends DC current to can motor(s). QSIndustries began with ACRU's for Lionel postwar locomotives. Early instructions explained how to cut a trace underneath and add a full-wave bridge rectifier for locomotives with DC can motors that were just coming out.
If your PS-1 board has 2 pin connectors on the bottom, Red is AC center rail, Black is Outer ground, White and Yellow are motor leads. If no connectors look a the board closely and you will see AC, ACG, M1 and M2, they tell you what goes where. G
Come on John! Look at the 3 wire plug with wires going to the bracket under the board. Many PS-1 models had the volume pot as an integral part of the brass bracket. Looks like he has it all including the coupler selection switch. G
Buying them used is not a good deal, the warranty is non transferable. Therefore, because they are still available at LHS everywhere, there are still good prices on them out there. I purchased mine new for 1800.
Lots of big yards had "ground air" so the car department could do their brake tests before the power was coupled to the train.. They would apply the trains brakes.,walk the train making inspections of the brakes and other things, They would then release the brake and walk the train again. It just save time and could they could get the work done without the engines coupled onto the train. Eventually another shorter test with the engines coupled on.
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