The 1 1/4s are incredibly fragile, as there's only a few ties holding the rail in. I've had a number of them where even a slight jolt while assembling them has knocked a rail off. It can be put back on with some super glue, but if this is a "fitter" as part of a larger run, you're better off getting a 40" rigid straight and just cutting off what you need (for example, cut a 21.25" piece, rather than 2 10"s and a 1.25). If you're screwing it down, you dont need the tie plate ends either, just...
I have a question about these locomotives. Did SP ever install single chime hooter type whistles like N&W or C&O used, on any of the GS4's? I know they had air horns on them, but I thought they always used the steamboat sounding whistles like UP's big locomotives, or N&W's J class. I was told that they had hooter whistles also, but I don't remember ever hearing one. Thanks in advance for any replies. Barry
Forum Members. I am considering buying my first passenger car set and I think I have landed on the MTH 20-20265-1 NYC ABA unit. Really like the way it looks. Does anyone know what the number of the matching MTH passenger car set might be? I would like to get the full 7 car set so I would appreciate both numbers. I no longer have the catalogs but do know that the engines came out in 2013. Thank you in advance for the help.
Looking for an answer on a recent purchase of a USED Lionel 0-6-0, B6 Switcher made in 1989-1990 numbered box 6-18000 and numbered steam engine 8977. My question is what type of sound besides whistle and bell are programmed into the Railsounds chips. Mine gives a chuff and a hiss when switching to forward or reverse BUT does not give the chugging sounds when the engine is moving only a low volume hiss. I’m wondering if I need it worked on to produce more of the original sounds. Reason I’m...
I have four O-Line Super-Snap O72 switch tracks. I was hoping to control all of my switch tracks with DTSP momentary toggle switches. However, the O-Line switch track controllers are marked for left and right hand switches and have a small circuit board inside of them. Can I substitute a simple momentary toggle switch ?
Need a few to power about 20 LED's. (Locations may too far apart to run connecting wires.) Any ideas? Need to be really well controlled as I don't want to vaporize any LED's. Is there enough power in the Z4000 14V tap to do this and power a TIU as well? Thanks!!
I‘M posting this video of my layout under construction. Comments welcome with regards to power. Please overlook the sideways image as I cannot reshoot at this time. Running Legacy Allegheny, & at least eight heavy weight passenger cars. 1. Leaning hard towards two power districts. (24’ overall length) 2. Feels like I can power all switch motors with a CW -80 transformer. 3. I have a new GW-180, and believe I need another. Thoughts?
I'm new to O gauge building first layout using Fastrack. I previously modeled N and HO, so that's where my experience has been. In the smaller scales it is always prudent to leave enough space between the track and edge of layout so equipment doesn't descend to the floor after a derailment (almost always in N, about 25% of the time in HO. With the broader spacing between rails, and the third rail in the middle, I would think leaving the track after a moderate speed derailment is rare in O,...
I recently purchased a used 6-11116 off eBay and I have a few questions about it. 1. The fan in the smoke unit puffs even when the smoke unit is off, is that normal? 2. Was Lionel as sloppy with wiring us the picture shows below, or has someone messed with it? 3. Is the head light supposed to be like that or is it pulled back by the tension caused by the wireing mess? Thanks in advance, Jim
I have the Lionel #132 automatic stop station. It works beautifully. That is until I placed my K-Line GG1 on the tracks. The loco stops but will not start again. I have the E-Unit locked in forward. I tried adjusting the timer in the station but still no motion after stopping. Could it be that the two motors in this loco create a different resistance than a single motored loco ? What about the can motors in the K-Line GG1 ? Would they behave differently than the standard Lionel Pullmor motor.
I have several older bachmann heritage units (NS 1072, 1066, 8100, and 8102) and I was considering converting them to ESU or TCS. Would it be worth it to rewire the locomotives? We bought them on impulse without thinking because they were on clearance.
I have a defective Lionchief Plus Pacific (Southern). My question is, from anyone's experience, would you advise I return it to Trainworld or ask them or Lionel to repair it? I just received it from Trainworld, the warranty is in effect, and it gets power (some chuff sounds) but does not run, either from transformer or remote. I followed the instructions carefully. My other engines run fine on the same track. 80 watt, 16 volt transformer. Thanks for any suggestion.
Buying them used is not a good deal, the warranty is non transferable. Therefore, because they are still available at LHS everywhere, there are still good prices on them out there. I purchased mine new for 1800.
DP, If the wireless accessory is attached directly to the FasTrack it needs Track power to operate, the same way your FTCC wireless Switches need track power to operate via remote control from your TMCC Cab1 or Legacy Cab2. PCRR/Dave
I'm not versed on the Legacy or TMCC systems. On strictly conventional layouts, wiring an accessory to track power not only drains power from the train, but causes you to have the loco in neutral when operating that accessory. So most, if not all operators choose to run the accessories from either fixed voltage posts or in the case of transformers like the ZW, use one of the throttles that isn't powering a track. So how does the fastback accessory take-off work ?
The 6-81313 does use track power. LionChief is constant voltage AC or DC and draw little power (2A). The new accessories require low amperage also. The 6-81314 provides a separate power option with a switch and port to connect a LionChief Power Pack. The plug and play accessories can be wired and activated the way that you are used to doing it.
I don't have, or at present plan to have, any of the new P&P accessories, so I haven't been following the operational aspects of these items. I have plenty of the older versions for now. However, I know that different accessories often operate best at different voltages, so for best operation it is preferable for each accessory to have its own variable power supply. I have about five old small starter-set transformers, and a ZW, all of which can be used to power individual accessories at...
<<<I'm curious to know how these various new P&P accessories are controlled to achieve their optimum individual power levels. >>> The new accessories, mostly, have small DC can motors and circuit boards. I've found they operate the same way at 12 or any voltage up to maximum. Once they get operating voltage, increasing the voltage has no effect on the accessory. Fine tuning not required.
Yes, they don't build 'em like they used to and in this case that's a good thing. Those accessories that require tweaking voltages for proper operation were crude designs using crude manufacturing techniques and crude materials. Modern accessories require no such "tuning" or the pile of transformers and rats' nest of wire that comes with it. You'd think everyone would agree that it's a "good" thing. Apparently it's okay for a train accessory to be broken out of the box? What happened to, "I...
I agree. The older accessories do require differing voltages depending on the accessory. The newer ones with can motors are an improvement however, as Matt has pointed out. That said, having had a layout full of post war operating accessories at one time, it took me quite some time, usually weeks, to fine tune the voltage and accessory so that anyone visiting my layout could operate it.
I don't own a vision line big boy yet,but trust me if I just paid 2700 or more dollars for one,the only person I want giving me advice on one is a highly experience lionel technician.no fun intended,it is what it is my friend.
I have one on its way and I hope it will work out of the Carton....However, If it does not, Lionel will take good care of it. I buy Lionel for the Service, After the Sale, and have been, for over 55 Years...I wish I had a Lionel Repair Station near Nashville, Tennessee, but I do not... This is one Popular Locomotive...Happy Railroading..
I had the same exact deck plate problem with my Legacy Big Boy.It was jammed down.I put a small cloth over it and forced it up with angled needle nosed pliers.I bought the locomotive used.I would not try this with a brand new VL.Lionel will make good on it.Nick
Originally Posted by oscalien: I don't own a vision line big boy yet,but trust me if I just paid 2700 or more dollars for one,the only person I want giving me advice on one is a highly experience lionel technician.no fun intended,it is what it is my friend. I do not believe anyone here paid any where close to what you stated above. mine was even under 2k.
$1995.00 at my favorite train store and he only has 1 left. Saw one running tonight at a club members house. About 45 minutes worth. It is one amazing machine. If anyone finds fault with this piece of art they don't deserve to be in the toy train hobby. Jim
Originally Posted by Jim 1939: If anyone finds fault with this piece of art they don't deserve to be in the toy train hobby. Jim Um, it is to big for my layout. So, does that mean I have to give up all of my stuff and leave now?
Originally Posted by Captaincog: Originally Posted by Jim 1939: If anyone finds fault with this piece of art they don't deserve to be in the toy train hobby. Jim Um, it is to big for my layout. So, does that mean I have to give up all of my stuff and leave now? No it just means Jim really liked the engine.
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