I recently picked up a beautiful Weaver 1320LP Soo Line EMD 40-2. This is my first model locomotive. I bought it used and, naturally, it didn't come with the operating manual. I've searched online using Google, but no luck in locating a manual. Does anyone have a manual they could share or sell? I'm also open to any suggestions to assist in finding one. I want to use this beauty to it's full capacity and maintain it properly and fear I cannot do either...
Okay, so I was visiting a local O scale two rail layout, and the owner had two Weaver GP38-2s running. He had detailed them very nicely, and they looked nothing like the basic models they came as. Many years ago my dad purchased three of these engines decorated in Conrail, and I too plan on detailing mine. In order to get started on this, the handrails need to be repainted to blue rather than their current black. These handrails are made out of delrin plastic, so if I paint them with Floquil...
I think you'll find the constant voltage board is simple enough to trace out. It just takes track power and drops it to 6V for the lighting and the Seuthe smoke unit. Since you're doing the PS/3 upgrade, you can power the 6V bulbs directly from the upgrade kit, just lose the constant voltage board.
Thanks for the reply. My concern, or maybe curiosity, was the 3 wires going into it... obviously(?) track voltage, ground, and ????? ! I was planning on running wheat bulbs over wheels on the head-lite circuit of PS3 wiring. Do you have any new or used fan driven smoke units available, I'm not afraid to cut a PS1 smoke board but I'd rather not do that.! Thanks for your reply to me and all the other advice to others
I'd have to see what the board looks like. Truthfully, I have a box of these. When I do an upgrade, either TMCC or PS2/3 to a brass Weaver/Williams/3rd Rail locomotive, I rip all that stuff out first, I don't spend a lot of time worrying how it's wired. You can typically put at least three 60ma bulbs on the headlight circuit of the PS/2 boards, and I suspect the PS/3 piggyback board is similar. For the ground lights, I'd consider wiring up some chip LED's so you can have three or four on a...
Great Info... Thank you! I am going to purchase several constant voltage units for LED's in passenger coaches from you. Do you have a "chip LEDs" if not, do you know of a source? I need 6 for the Dreyfus and another 6 for an Empire State Express PS1 which is my next project. Thanks again,
I buy mine on eBay, cheaper than I could ever sell them. Check eBay 151921708354 for these. These are from a US seller, so you should get them in at most a few days. I just use CA adhesive to stick them where I need them and wire them with #30 wire. Ultra Warm White 5050 SMD LED PLCC-6 3-Chip SMT 50pcs
About the same spot the DCRU is in. Need to get speaker in fuel tank if possible. Heat sink for square rectifier mount same, but you may need to drill holes for the brass mount attached to the regulator at the other end. G
Can you get a pic of the bottom of the new dcru ? Orange (center rail ) and brown (outside rail)wires were at one time QSI colours. However you may have a little more than that to worry about . There's probably a voltage regulator that must be insulated from the chassis. It's also part of the mounting bracket on some engines.
DCRU = DC current Reverse Unit. That is the bottom board. A full-wave bridge rectifier sends DC current to can motor(s). QSIndustries began with ACRU's for Lionel postwar locomotives. Early instructions explained how to cut a trace underneath and add a full-wave bridge rectifier for locomotives with DC can motors that were just coming out.
If your PS-1 board has 2 pin connectors on the bottom, Red is AC center rail, Black is Outer ground, White and Yellow are motor leads. If no connectors look a the board closely and you will see AC, ACG, M1 and M2, they tell you what goes where. G
Come on John! Look at the 3 wire plug with wires going to the bracket under the board. Many PS-1 models had the volume pot as an integral part of the brass bracket. Looks like he has it all including the coupler selection switch. G
What I want to do is put my Southern pacific daylight shells on the Santa fe's frame for the silver trucks and belly tank. I have a set of The Blalackwidow shells (no frames or wheels) that I was then going to put on the black frames of the daylights. I just like the look of the daylight colors on the silver trucks. I have a set of f3's that look great like this on my upper shelf. markb
Mark, Just saw your blog. I have two Weaver EMD E8's with B units.available for sale. One is a Union Pacific and the other one is Amtrak. The Amtrak has sound and extra power added. Let me know if this is of interest to you. Barry Leonard
Mike CT, I notice that only one of the two engines has a tack reader on a motor. is the second a slave? Is the battery shaped item in the middle a weight? How much $ to do a motor replace and new boards?
Fgroza, Beat my bid by $4... Did you see the guy selling the (Weaver/Williams) e-8 shells. I don't think he knows the difference. How can you tell the difference?? Dennis, I will consider your offer while I see if I can find the Black widow set. How much to ship them to San Diego? Mark
This set of Weaver Pennsy E8 had vertical can motors, no flywheels and the weight that was mentioned. QSI drive board. If I remember it was a bit difficult to get the (2) A units to run together. There was something about the A unit running backwards. Great candidates for electronics upgrades. Lots of room. Per discussion here on the forum some of the original offering had issues with the stainless grills coming loose on the sides of the units, which may account for the shells (only) that...
Oldcarsrule: The above upgrade series of photo's pretty much shows you all about the Weaver E-8's; both outside and inside. As regards the note by another about the grills - they are stainless and the holes in the shell for mounting them via tabs that are folded over are very small and tight; so much so that the grills cannot move when they expand with temp. change and so they will buckle/wave in spots - not very much, but a little. Many just glue them down with a clear glue as the tabs on...
Originally Posted by Oldcarsrule: Mike CT, I notice that only one of the two engines has a tack reader on a motor. is the second a slave? No, both A units are wired the same with a complete EOB system with tach reader in each. Unfortunately the progress photo does not show that. At the time it was mentioned that one EOB board would handle all four motors of Both A units. I opted for each A unit to be complete, and combine them as a consist/lash-up, each with it's own TMCC ID number. Is the...
Denis M, Im in 92128 for ZIP. Mike CT, They turned out great. At the time I only run conventional (ZW) but am planning on upgrading. Most of my engines are MTH proto 1 so I was planning on going the DCS route. Will the EOB boards run with the DCS system? You mention the TMCC (lionel) system. Thanks for all the use full info. Mark
SP never had E8 B units, E7's yes and PA'S. The widow E8's show up on evilbay from time to time and a B unit went for $68 last week. I got mine from the web and remotored them, run great! I started bidding on the widow E8 just for the "neat-cool"factor. Nothing better looking than the Blackwidow scheme on a GM F/E unit. Yea I like the Warbonnet also. As stated, living on the east coast , SP is hard to find at times. Good luck on your search. Frank
Yes, both E-8 A's are powered with can motors. There are big weights inside the A unit shells. The B units are non-powered, and all have fixed couplers except for the front of the A units. They also have stainless steel grills. Dennis M.
Hey OldCarsRule: I have a set of the Weaver E-8's in the Southern Pacific Daylight color in an ABBA package. I was planing to power up one of the B's and run as an ABB, but never got around to doing it; so all units are still as manufactured. I did put some 3M frosted tape on the inside to cut out the glare of the light bulb through the number board area (can be just peeled off and all is like new). The boxes are beginning to show wear and tare as I took them to shows several times to sell;...
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