John, go ahead and make the box repairs--your locomotives, etc. will have more value with a repaired original box than if it is sold without a box. As noted above, a repaired box on its own may not hold much value.
Correct. Tape will eventually ruin your boxes even if you can get it to look good at first, which is very difficult. I have repaired boxes with high quality wood glue used sparingly. I then clamp it or press it until dry enough to hold. I also read a thread somewhere discussing box repair. There are some very sofisticated approaches to torn box repair as well. Water damage is one of the hardest problems to solve. BTW, I do like to keep boxes and I do value boxed items more. However, I don't...
Why would you ruin them with tape in any case? If you are going to take the time to do something, do it right. As tape ages, it will discolor and lose it's adhesion. I have seen it many times. By that time, the finish of the box is destroyed. If you want to keep the boxes and keep them nice, don't use tape. George
I can't speak to the collecting value of taped boxes one way or another but from an archival point of view, I can see two safe options. One is to use acid free "scotch" tape. Most stores commonly sell this now because of its safe use for photo albums (remember those from pre-phone camera days? :-). It shouldn't crack or yellow. The second option would be to use archival mending tape, which you can find in art stores. It is much weaker and more like rice paper but if you just want to shore up...
Now show me one with a dump car or a 3 lid tank car or a hopper car please. The man was not talking about the rare items. He has an old set out of the attic. How do you know? I reread the original post. The poster didn't say what he had.
IMHO, putting tape on the outside of a postwar box pretty much reduces the value to zero. Then again, I don't think a tattered box has much value anyway, unless it is a very rare one, with contents. Many 1960's pieces were normally sold in sets where the pieces did not have individual boxes. Sometimes boxed examples of those pieces will bring a significant premium. But I am not taking big bucks in any case.
Some people want boxes they don't have, some people have boxes they don't want. Why not bring the two together? List what you have in Buy/Sell and see if you get any takers for at least some of them. I imagine somebody out there will take at least some of them off your hands . Eventually. (Personally, I'm looking for a RailKing box that'll fit this caboose , and a MTH Premier box for a 50' boxcar) ---PCJ
I'm pretty sure this is one of the many Mel Price repaints. When the Lionel 17900 Santa Fe and the 17901 Chevron unibody tank cars were issued, Mel had some of them repainted into other paint schemes. This is likely one of them. Stu
Thanks for the insights. Actually my friend that has this set, decided to open up the engine. He found out that it appeared to be opened up before (?), but regardless he found that the plunger was stuck, and took care of that sticky problem, and the engine is now smoking great! He was very happy!
Stu i think you are correct , the box it came in was a chevron tank car 6-17901, the paint job looks factory done , i got it for 23.00 bucks , i bought it to go with the meta box car of the same color, came on it by chance . thanks for the info techman
If you have an Ohm meter, and know how to use it, you could open the engine up and place the meter across the smoke element. It should read about 18 ohms if it is good..If I recall correctly. You could also look to make sure the plug for the smoke is fully seated in the board, and that no wires are broken. On the smoke one wire, probably red, will run from the plug to the smoke unit. the other, probably blue will run from the plug to the smoke switch, then from the switch to the smoke unit.
Also, once the smoke feature is activated, it may take up to 2 minutes to get the smoke running. My first engine wouldn't smoke when I turned the smoke on. After a few days, I left the smoke on by accident and went to make a sandwich. When I came back, it was smoking! I guess it takes a couple of minutes to warm up the heating element.
Blow on it? I thought that was for Nintendo game cartridges? Lol Backing off on fluid a bit might help too. Total saturation can cool an element quite a bit. If its a cooler element to start with, that means a longer warm up or even failure to smoke for a few days. I have three steamers that require either a fluid with a fast evaporation rate, or careful top offs to perform.
One other thing, I'm going to assume this is a LionChief set, as that is all I've seen in Menards. If so, are you testing with the engine moving on the track? LionChief engines automatically turn off the smoke unit when the engine is not moving. JGL
No, there was never a Lionel post-war 0-6-0 steam switcher CATALOGED nor was there ever a Lionel post-war or pre-war locomotive numbered 656. The number 656 was used on a pre-war O gauge cattle car made from 1935 though 1940 although Lionel occasionally reused a pre-war number on a completely different post-war item. There was a #403 steam switcher shown in the 1946 catalog but this engine was never made. In the image in the catalog (probably an artist's drawing and not a photograph) it is...
Ok that's they I figured they never made one. The only 060 Lionel ever made that I was able to find pictures of was the 300 series pre war locomotives. Thanks for the info. I'll look at the forum archives. Any idea on the exact date of that poster?
Update on the posters: I forgot that the posters were listed in the 1990 Greenberg Guide to Lionel Paper book by Osterhoff. Both versions are listed on page 53 if you have that book. No photos, just descriptions and both versions are listed as 1947. Also they are not identified as DEALER posters as I had said earlier. If you don’t have the book the description for the first version says “16½” wide x 10½” high, wall poster, printed on one side in yellow, black, and red ink on white paper,...
That is where someone adapted a 6 wheel motor, and shoehorned it into a 1656 body. Definitely a nice job, and the countersink screw hole is the telltale sign of the modification. Makes for a nice 0-6-0 switcher, to say the least.
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