Tagged With "Newbie"

Topic

Help with new Layout questions form a Newbie

Todd Poole ·
Hi and thank you for your help with the following questions.. I am looking to do something on a high rail layout with Ross switches and gargraves track. My min radius is 054 hopefully. I plan on going with Tmcc.. So a couple questions... The larger to scale ross switches are labeled #4, #6 ect. They look like angled switches, without radius curves? Am I right? Also what type of ross do folks like the Premier of the other style? Pros, Cons... I'm also planning to put a good number of track...
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Re: Newbie to Vintage Gilbert engines; good, bad, and ugly.

Roundhouse Bill ·
Wow....Lots of questions. I do a Flyer repair column in the S Gaugian magazine. Tom Barker was the original writer of the Roundhouse Column. It is my opinion that all the engines you are operating need a complete tune up and cleaning. Gilbert engines in good running condition do not show the problems you are writing about. Now, not being able to see the engines the one complicating factor is are there ware issues. Being produced in the 1940's and 50's wear could be a factor. Flyer Pacifics...
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Re: Newbie to Vintage Gilbert engines; good, bad, and ugly.

J Daddy ·
I absolutely love American Flyer. A product that was way ahead of its time. The slowing down of your trains may actually be the transformer starting to over heat. I agree with the track comment. The American flyer track has more of a T section which improves pulling power. My favorite locomotive was the NY&NH 293 and then the 5 digit NYC Hudson.... followed by the little 0-6-0 sloped back switchers. The smoke units are kind of tricky to rebuild but they keep smoking strong as long as you...
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Re: Newbie to Vintage Gilbert engines; good, bad, and ugly.

Donald Payer ·
Hi Smoke Stack Lightnin, I have read your problems with your Royal Blue. I think you have an armature which is hitting the brush tubes. In the motor there are some spacers to relieve the slack or the armature from front to rear when it changes directions. There might be spaced too close to the bottom of the brush tubes which causes the armature to hit them on the armature face and scar it. Remove the brush plate and armature and check the spacers and adjust accordingly so that the armature...
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Re: Newbie to Vintage Gilbert engines; good, bad, and ugly.

Smoke Stack Lightnin ·
Thanks for the responses! Don, very interesting you should mention the armature travel. When I disassembled the engine for cleaning (something a habitually do with any newly acquired old engines) I thought there was a lot of play going from front to back/vice versa. There was only one armature spacer and that was towards the front. Nothing on the back (brush side). I noticed the exploded diagrams don't show a spacer on the back side so I didn't give it any more thought. I have 2 spare...
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Re: Newbie to Vintage Gilbert engines; good, bad, and ugly.

richabr ·
The twist tabs in the reverse units are pretty much indestructible. Might want to be careful with the tender tabs as they are just a thin tin like materiel. Make sure everything cycles and runs good before reattaching the tender shell to avoid multiple twistings. Original gilbert track will easily fit in a 48' dimension. Make sure that the armature has a slight bit of play front to rear. Oil the front of the armature shaft where it enters the chassis bearing (do this from the top of the...
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Re: Newbie to Vintage Gilbert engines; good, bad, and ugly.

Smoke Stack Lightnin ·
I did take the motor apart to add a spacer and went and opened up the reverse unit. 3 of the 4 fingers had holes worn thru and one was flattened probably in an attempt to make better contact. I ordered 2 sets of fingers (one for extra) to replace. I'm anxious to see if adding the spacer will quiet it down, but need to wait for the fingers to arrive at this point. Thanks! Rich
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Re: Newbie to Vintage Gilbert engines; good, bad, and ugly.

jim sutter ·
Another reason your 336 steam engine pulls all your freight cars is your 336 have pull mor wheels. Like rubber tires. All the other engines you listed do not. The 0-54 curve track you have was made by K-Line. Original Flyer curve is 0-36. Check some of your local shops to see if they have any good clean used Flyer track. I agree with Mr. Payer regarding the banging noise. Also, make sure the side rods are lubed where they enter the steam chest. As someone else stated, all of your engines...
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Re: Newbie to Vintage Gilbert engines; good, bad, and ugly.

Steve "Papa" Eastman ·
If you are interested in some original Flyer track, I just pulled mine out to take to this months meet to sell. All usable. If interested, contact me and I'll work up an inventory of the box. More than enough for a Holiday layout. Steve
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Re: Newbie to Vintage Gilbert engines; good, bad, and ugly.

Gary Graves ·
Excellent thread. Very informative. Thanks gentlemen!
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Re: Newbie to Vintage Gilbert engines; good, bad, and ugly.

Smoke Stack Lightnin ·
Thanks guys. Jim- good to hear from you! Don't know what I miss most, your store, or the despairing yarns would tell to help the sale. I think once you told me there would be no Thanksgiving turkey on the Sutter's table if I didn't buy an engine! Steve, thanks for the offer but this year I'm just going to stay with the Fastrack. Rich
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Re: newbie buying used DCS

Marty Fitzhenry ·
I am on board with a new R-L also. If you do go the other way, try to snag one from a forum member. Stay clear of other sites.
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Re: newbie buying used DCS

Gregg ·
Handhelds are the same. I wouldn't hesitate to buy any version except... an early G from around 02 (nothing to indicate version on the bottom) and a I3a . 2008?. Everything else can be upgraded software wise. Having said that we still a early G on our large super mode layout with version 5 software. How do you know the condition of the stuff you're thinking of getting is the question.. I suppose if you can purchase it cheap enough it may be an option . I think I'd go new unless I knew the ...
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Re: newbie buying used DCS

Barry Broskowitz ·
I wouldn't buy anything other than the latest TIU (Rev. L) and remote from, an authorized MTH dealer for the following reasons: The Rev. L TIU has newer technology and improved performance over any previous model TIU. The Rev. L has a USB port which negates the need to purchase a separate USB to serial cable. The price difference between a new Rev. L and a used Rev. L is at most $40-50, and a new Rev. L, purchased from an authorized MTH dealer, comes with a 1-year MTH warranty. A used TIU...
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Re: newbie buying used DCS

rtr12 ·
Personally, I would follow Barry's advice above and purchase a new DCS system (with Rev L TIU) from an MTH dealer.
Topic

Help - Newbie needs guidance on tight radius Christmas layout

newtoO ·
Hello all, I am converting my 3-rail Christmas layout to 2-rail and made a newbie mistake on the radius turns which I just replicated from the old 3-rail track.  I currently have 24" radius (O-48) curves (with a small straight section in the...
Topic

Best Glues

Geo2000 ·
Hi, I am a newbie to modeling and wanted to know the best glue products to use for building both wool kit structures and plastic structures. Also any other tools I should get beyond paints brushes and xacto. Thanks in advance!
Topic

Newbie to Vintage Gilbert engines; good, bad, and ugly.

Smoke Stack Lightnin ·
Despite owning way too many O-gauge engines/equipment, I wanted to do American Flyer for under the tree, as AF was my first toy train as a seven year old. I recently acquired a 282, 322, 336, and a 350, some given to me and some purchased. I love the vintage engines and have no plans in getting into modern Flyonel, I already have the bells and whistles in O gauge. These engines, all pacifics (the 336 is a Northern) have their own quirks/personalities, I am finding. Like I said, these items...
Topic

newbie buying used DCS

kountry mailman ·
I know that the current tiu is version L, but what features will you miss by buying an older version. Were there lots of earlier versions and are there certain ones to steer clear of? Also are the handheld remotes all the same or have then been changed a lot also? Please be kind to a DCS newbie and set me straight Thanks
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Help a newbie troubleshoot a loop to loop layout?

Drybrarian ·
I'm trying a new loop to loop layout for my Christmas train setup, and can't get it to run completely.  I worked off the plan below from http://www.trainz.com/t-track-plans-ideas.aspx, bought all my Fastrack pieces, and assembled it.  The train will run on the loop with the terminal section, no problem, but when it gets into the straight away, it craps out two or three sections from the switch piece.  (It's not consistent how far it makes it.)   I can get it to run...
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Newbie Planning

Aegis21 ·
Hello All, First thanks for your patience in advance as I have some limiting conceptual issues. I have read much from magazines, books and forums about planning, however even the most basic step is eluding me. My available area is an L shaped space that is 12 foot wide twenty 24 feet long with an additional 10 foot wide by 8 foot deep leg of the L. While trying to keep a 30-36" reach, planning out aisles for this shape with retaining the most layout area is obviously something beyond my...
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Help Please, I'm a Newbie

Richard Whipkey ·
I am just entering the world of command control. Thirty+ years ago, when my children were young, I bought them each a nice Fundimensions Southern Pacific engine. We set up a 12' x 9' layout in our finished basement with three loops and ran a GS4, an FM, a F3 and a GP7, all conventional of course. We dismantled the layout around 2002. My daughter has three sons and I bought then each two engines around 2005, all TMCC. We have 3 PRR K4s, 2 GG1s and 2 GP7s. We had intentions of a building a...
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Info on finding Coal Breaker Kit

Shirley ·
Any information welcome on finding a K&P Coaling Structure kit. We would like to buy a kit, but can't find where to purchase. Building a Northeast Pennsylvania coal themed layout. Newbie!
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Re: Info on finding Coal Breaker Kit

tr18 ·
They don't have a website. You need to call them K&P Brick and Building - Coal mining kits, gantry crane, coal elevator, contact: (717) 747-0493
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Re: Info on finding Coal Breaker Kit

Shirley ·
Thanks so much tr18, appreciate it!
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Re: Help - Newbie needs guidance on tight radius Christmas layout

mwb ·
24" radius in 2 rail - 2-8-0? Probably not unless the center 2 drivers are blinded. Even then unless the drivers are blocked up, they might drop below the railhead...
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Re: Help - Newbie needs guidance on tight radius Christmas layout

Jeoff ·
My curves are a hair broader than yours at 28". I don't have any steamers but have thought if I ever get the chance that an Atlantic might work. The only thing I would suggest is to switch to a diesel locomotive. An F unit should work. I have a GP9 that does fine. If you really want steam you could go back a little farther in time with 4-4-0 type. Finding some of this stuff in 2 rail before Christmas might be a challenge though. Best of luck. Geoff
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Re: Help - Newbie needs guidance on tight radius Christmas layout

AGHRMatt ·
You might want to consider doing a loop of Atlas 2-rail 36" radius. I know you're talking about a 6-foot circle, but you'll have fewer issues overall. Freight cars (40-foot) realistically need about 27" radius (O-54) but operate better at 36" radius. A rough way to estimate the radius you need is to measure the bolster-to-bolster distance on a freight car and multiply that by three for your [bare] minimum radius requirement.
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Re: Help - Newbie needs guidance on tight radius Christmas layout

newtoO ·
@Geoff, thanks, I am actually looking for a diesel, any suggestions? The diesel is for the Holiday freight train and I would like to stick with a Steamer for the Polar Express. This small layout is for the family at the holidays and if I can get in to 2-rail O like my traction equipment, I will be in good shape.
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Re: Help - Newbie needs guidance on tight radius Christmas layout

newtoO ·
@Matt, thanks, I may have to do that. I was told that I should double check with MTH and see if the center 2 drivers on that engine are blind and if they are they might work on something tighter than 31" but, probably not 24". I will measure the bolsters, that is a really good tip. Thanks, Chris
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Re: Help - Newbie needs guidance on tight radius Christmas layout

Jeoff ·
Chris, I think Matt's advice is really good especially since you don't have a lot of time before Christmas. You would also be able to use the engine you just bought. That would also allow you to use many diesels. Just about any 4 axle engine would work I would think. I couldn't speak to how 6 axle engines would work having never owned one myself. To be honest I'm not sure if the equipment I have would work on 24" curves or not. The coupler swing is pretty much maxed out on the 50' cars. If...
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Re: Help - Newbie needs guidance on tight radius Christmas layout

RICKC ·
I used to put up a 2 rail Christmas layout. I used the old Atlas 24" radius track. But I used an F3 diesel ABA set with body mounted couplers. Most of the time they didn't work. My passenger cars (18" cars) had truck mounted couplers and they worked fine. I found that if I used just the F3 A unit and the passenger cars it work fine. However, if you can expand to 36" radius you will be better off. You may be able to use a Pacific type engine (with only 3 drivers rather than 4) it should work...
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Re: Help - Newbie needs guidance on tight radius Christmas layout

AGHRMatt ·
Originally Posted by newtoO: @Matt, thanks, I may have to do that. I was told that I should double check with MTH and see if the center 2 drivers on that engine are blind and if they are they might work on something tighter than 31" but, probably not 24". I will measure the bolsters, that is a really good tip. Thanks, Chris A hi-rail mth steam locomotive with "Proto 3/2" configuration will negotiate 36" radius Atlas 2-rail track. The hi-rail flanges are cut a little smaller and don't hit the...
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Re: Help - Newbie needs guidance on tight radius Christmas layout

mwb ·
Originally Posted by newtoO: .....see if the center 2 drivers on that engine are blind.... Chris Pretty sure that they are not since I had Joe F. convert one of mine to that condition.
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Re: Help - Newbie needs guidance on tight radius Christmas layout

Simon Winter ·
Originally Posted by mwb: Originally Posted by newtoO: .....see if the center 2 drivers on that engine are blind.... Chris Pretty sure that they are not since I had Joe F. convert one of mine to that condition. I'll cast my vote with Martin. I don't recall any consolidations with blind drivers. Cheers! Simon PS: There was an 0-8-0 (C-1 I think) that had the 2, 3 drivers blind.
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Re: Best Glues

NJCJOE ·
Use this as a guide. http://www.thistothat.com/
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Re: Best Glues

Jerrman ·
For wood structures you can use any wood glue. They dry strong but they are yellow so more difficult to hide mistakes or paint. I use Aileen's Tacky Glue, water clean-up, available everywhere, bonds quickly (at least for handling until it cures) and is less watery than Elmer's. Plus it dries clear. For styrene, there are specific adhesives (available at hobby shops, craft stores, online at, for example, Micro-mark) that don't really glue the edges but rather melts them so you get a really...
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Re: Best Glues

Geo2000 ·
Herman, THANKS SO MUCH!!! This is great info and I will go to Micromart for sure.
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Re: Best Glues

mwb ·
1st - don't build any wool kits, Ok, wood - you can use just about any Carpenter's glue, however, you have to be a little cautious about warping from the moisture in that glue, and it's also not very strong in joints that are comprise of end grain. You can also use CA and a host of other glues for wood to wood. Plastic - depends on the type of plastic. Styrene - see above. I use Tenax to "weld" it together. ABS - now you are using MEK to weld it together. Other polymer plastics can get very...
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Re: Best Glues

Trainman2001 ·
All good. Regarding Goo. I find that contact cements lose their grip over time. I have a model ship that I painstakingly applied individual copper tiles on the bottom. Almost all of those tiles have now detached themselves over the 40 that the model has existed. All glues have their pluses and minuses. For styrene, I also use Tenax or Plastruct's Bounden, but I apply it will a Touch-n-Flow applicator. This is a piece of small O.D. glass tubing with a piece of capillary tubing in the end. It...
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Re: Help a newbie troubleshoot a loop to loop layout?

D500 ·
The connections are fine, at least in principle. I do not know the condition (or brand) of your track. Doesn't matter. It should work. You don't need multiple transformers. One of the most valuable tools that a model railroader (of any kind) can have - indeed, it should be required with your first traxk purchase! - is a multimeter . They can be had a Harbor Freight (etc, etc) for 7 bucks, sometimes. This allows you to, among other things, check: 1 - voltage, AC and DC; you need to know this,...
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Re: Help a newbie troubleshoot a loop to loop layout?

Big_Boy_4005 ·
How many places around the layout are you feeding power from the transformer?
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Re: Help a newbie troubleshoot a loop to loop layout?

Drybrarian ·
Thank you for the quick response and good advice. I'll buy a multimeter right away. I did some experimenting on the floor, swapping out various pieces of straight track to see if some of the sections of Fastrack were problematic. I'd try the 3 piece straight away setup and label pieces as "good," then proceed to test others. Then I'd try different combinations to try to get it longer. Invariably when I lengthened it to 4 pieces of 10 inch straight away, it caused problems.
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Re: Help a newbie troubleshoot a loop to loop layout?

Drybrarian ·
BigBoy4005, I've only got one terminal section, so I'm only feeding power from the transformer to one section of the track. Should I be doing it to more places? Can I just buy a second terminal section and run some wire?
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Re: Help a newbie troubleshoot a loop to loop layout?

Big_Boy_4005 ·
Using a meter is a good idea. I kind of suspected you only had one feed. More couldn't hurt. I'm not very well versed in the particulars of Fastrack, especially the electrical details of the switches.
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Re: Help a newbie troubleshoot a loop to loop layout?

Gregg ·
Push a lighted caboose around to see where the light goes out... Fast track?? there was a Lionel video on here a few days ago about tightening up track pin connections. You may have to run a wire from one outside rail to the other outside rail in a couple of spots depending which rail the lock on is on. By the looks of your pic a good place for the lock on ( or whatever is used)would be between the switches on the straight on the lower rail. .
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Re: Help a newbie troubleshoot a loop to loop layout?

Mr Union Pacific ·
A multimeter is a must and I would also feed power to the track I several different locations. That should help.
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Re: Help a newbie troubleshoot a loop to loop layout?

Texas Pete ·
Put the terminal track in the section between the two reverse loops. Pete
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Re: Help a newbie troubleshoot a loop to loop layout?

jmiller320 ·
Add a couple more power drops equally spaced around the layout. There are tabs on the bottom of most pieces of Fastrack. I'f you can find the crimp on connectors you can make your own.
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Re: Help a newbie troubleshoot a loop to loop layout?

Moonman ·
Try this at your dead spot. FasTrack Continuity Fix
 
OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Suite 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
330-757-3020

www.ogaugerr.com
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