Not sure what happened to the other post, but below I've referenced a couple of threads from the last year mentioning this problem on two different loco designs. One of the threads has photos: http://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/t...71#42820927485912771 http://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/t...05#42961695650136905 So the problem is NOT imaginary, or foundless bashing. If the wheels are worn down, slightly undersized relative to the design spec, or not pressed on straight the chassis might drag. Also, if...
Hi Everyone, I am trying to locate the part number for the little screws in the AIU in the accessory and switch ports. I seem to be missing 2 of them. I left a message with MTH parts but though I could get the ball rolling earlier. Thanks
A few hobby shops carry a limitrd variety of tiny metric screws. I suggest buying a screw gauge to determine diameter, and then going on line and order a broad selection. Shipping wouls probably be less than MTH's price.d what sizes are generally use I would ask GRJ &GGG what they do to keep in stock a selection of needed screw sizes, and what sizes are most used.
I know these are internet sources, but Micro Fasteners may have them and I don't remember their shipping costs being too outrageous a year or so ago? Another one would be McMaster Carr, don't know about their shipping rates? Also Ace hardware has some small screws. As for MTH and their $9.50 shipping minimum, Lionel has the same policy. I ordered some tiny springs for 25 or 50 cents each from them a while back, it was just like your screws, $9 or $10 for shipping, $1 or $2 for the parts.
I had to go to Lowes this evening, so I checked. My Lowes has metric machine bolts down to M3, in 3 lengths. I think most MTH bolts are M2. rtr12: When you need small parts, another solution is to e-mail one of the techs, like GRJ or GGG, for their shipping might be less. I don't know what the webmaster's reaction would be to posting requests to buy parts. That could be a whole new forum, but then the techs would be trying to bid against each other and that probably wouldn't be healthy for them.
Gentlemen, Gunrunnerjohn is right on the money as usual, McMaster-Carr should have them in stock, shipping should be reasonable with them. Good Lord I do believe I should purchase stock in that company, just because my O guage train needs. PCRR/Dave
A related question is where to get screws for MTH eqpt. MTH uses a variety of tiny metric screws, both machine and otherwise, which are not generally available in hardware stores and to order on line results in shipping costs that far outweigh the fastener costs. Any ideas?
Ok here is my problem with this, why cannot MTH take the 10 of these screws that i want to order, stick them in a regular envelope with with a USPS stamp on it? I am even willing to send them a self addressed envelope with a stamp on it. this is crazy that they do not even suggest this.
Unfortunately, GGG, Taylor has not yet moved beyond Tidewater. Am I correct is assuming that most MTH machine bolts are M2? Maybe when MTH re-issues its promised master parts catalog it will contain screw & bolt sizes. I have also had problems finding the replacement screws that go into plastic, but I have never seen metric screws in hardware stores.
Originally Posted by RJR: I had to go to Lowes this evening, so I checked. My Lowes has metric machine bolts down to M3, in 3 lengths. I think most MTH bolts are M2. rtr12: When you need small parts, another solution is to e-mail one of the techs, like GRJ or GGG, for their shipping might be less. I don't know what the webmaster's reaction would be to posting requests to buy parts. That could be a whole new forum, but then the techs would be trying to bid against each other and that probably...
That's what I have, and a similar book for the Premier which bears the date 1999. Unfortunately, screw sizes aren't given, just the MTH part number. I suspect that most of the parts showsn other than electronics, are still used on similar locos made in this century. Not having a list of everything MTH had made by that time, I can't check for completeness. The R-K book is 14mm thick and bears a $5 price. The Premier book says $2. Thanks for the lead, MRich.
In my experience, the paint and metal loss shown in your photo is the result of arcing during a derailment. There is a little slop in the mounting of the roller assembly, so care would have to taken to make sure the roller was centered to avoid trouble at switches. The 227 series locos run pretty well. I have not had trouble with them arcing on the third rail. They were made to run on prewar tubular track. There might be problems with more modern switches.
My post got deleted because I work and couldn't respond I quess fast enough. So automatically I was bashing mth. But I have a PS3 steam turbine and PS3 Erie triplex and both have screws on bottom that come very close to center rail on 022 switches and will spark and ground out. I put electrical tape over the screws and now ok.
Hi, what is the simplest way to connect multiple operating accessories in parallel to power from one CW-80? I will not be soldering anything. Crimping and/or tightening screws attached to terminal blocks is what I'm going for. I'm an amateur at electronics, some pictures of actual products would be very helpful. This is for a Christmas layout and I'd like to be modular so I can disconnect the items and reconnect next year. Thanks Garrett
Are you also asking about accessory activation wires? Those vary by each type of accessory. Are these all buildings? Otherwise, could you list the accessories you are trying to hook up? Also, you asked about modular connections. There are great ways to use labeled Molex connectors so that you can unplug a module just like you would with a power cord to a wall outlet.
I am learning from everyone but still not all the way there, yet. I am a visual learner and would really appreciate a hand drawn sketch with arrows showing the flow direction of electricity at each connection point. please clearly label polarity and other relevant points Thanks!
Garrett, if you look at ACDX Rob's excellent diagram you will notice that he says to use a jumper strip on one side of the barrier. A jumper strip is a thin metal strip that looks sort of like a comb. Think of the prongs of the comb and imagine two going under each screw on one side of the barrier strip. Now all of the screws on that side of the barrier strip are electrically connected. So, if you attach your red (hot) wire to any of the screws on the side with the jumper strip all of the...
Garrett I see you live in Maryland - same here in Baltimore. If you email me at email@example.com I'll give you me cell number. Call me (any time-I'm retired) and I'll walk you through the hook-up. BTW nice job on your web site.
Garrett, that barrier strip is a fairly common item that should be available at Lowes, HD, ACE, Menard's, Radioshack if you're lucky enough to still have one nearby or any quality hardware store. They come in various lengths so depending on the number of accessories you may want a longer or shorter strip. Look closely at Chuck's picture and you'll see the copper "jumper"wires connecting the cells of the strip so that one power wire from transformer feeds up to six accessories. You'll also...
so, do all the red wires go on one side (top) and all black wires go on other side (bottom)? or is it power wires on the outside (left and right) and operating accessory wires go the middle? a sketch on paper would be helpful. thanks!
It's left and right. Each vertical pair of screw downs are electrically isolated from each other. I connect half of them of them together and call that red, then the other half connected and they are black. In Lionel terms that is A and U. Instead of using wire jumpers which I make out of #20 ga wire cut in about one inch length and bending around a needle nose plier in the shape of a U, you can buy jumpers. They come in say 8 or 12 long and I cut off what I need like say 4 in a row to...
This is my favorite way. Black to one side and red to the other. You can even plug in with banana jacks. I made this myself, but MTH and Miniatronics each sell one called a power distribution block. George
They seem to have one model of the item shown and also the other type of Barrier strip at Lowes (you will have ot change to your local store to see if they actually have it). Barrier Strip #1 . Barrier Strip #2 . -Dave
excellent, exactly what I was looking for. One question- as the wire leaves the transformer and becomes many before connecting to the jumper, how do I simply get multiple wires from one? something happens at that intersection which is not clear to me thanks!
thanks. questions- is this a common item? Anyone know if it's carried at Lowe's? If not, what brick and mortar location can I get one? is it bare wire ends or do I need to purchase some sort of end connector? what holds it in place, screw pressure? Thanks
Garret, I've borrowed Chucks picture, If you look closely the red wire entering the strip on the left hand top side is hot power from the transformer into the strip, it is connected to the next five cells on the top side of the strip by 5 short, un-insulated copper jumper wires connecting each terminal to the next terminal to the right thus powering six terminals. On the bottom side you can see three red (Hot) wires coming out of three individual terminals, these are the hot wires to the...
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