Tagged With "Atlas"

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Re: Fixed Pilot and Scale Coupler installed on FM Erie Built

Norm Charbonneau ·
Good job! I like those engines. I had them in NYC but sold them off a few years ago. Wouldn't mind finding the PRR ones someday.
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Re: Atlas 7.5 turnouts

Basil ·
All four for $50?
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Re: New Projects From Atlas

tom yorke ·
Rusty, That is a 44 ton Plymouth WDT in Puerto Rico and it is narrow gauge unit.
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Re: Atlas O Switch Failures

gunrunnerjohn ·
I've soldered to the "Alien metal" of the Atlas switch, I just scrape all the blackening off it. I always thought it was the same as the rails. We had a bunch of older Atlas switches that the flimsy thread burned out and we had to jumper. Since I didn't want to lift them, I just run a wire under the table between the two points. I use a heavy enough wire so I only have to do it once.
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Re: Atlas O Switch Failures

Jan ·
Atlas corrected the wiring problems as well as other with the second (?) release of switches. You can identify them because on the box it says "UV protected". It is also cast into the underside of the plastic ties. The "problems" with Atlas switches comes up frequently. It is a rehash of problems from many years ago. As long as you buy new production you will be fine. Be wary of buying used and off ebay. Check for UV protection. Trainworld has O54 switches for $80. Jan
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Re: Atlas O Switch Failures

CNJ #1601 ·
Robert, I would also like to know the answer to this question! I picked up the handout pictured below from the Atlas folks at a train show last January. As you can see, it highlights all of the planned changes to the design and production of the Atlas switches, most of which were supposed to address the known "issues". Well, the switches are finally starting to arrive here in the States...and I would love to know if any or all of these improvements were in fact made. I'm really hoping that...
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Re: Atlas O Switch Failures

rtr12 ·
Thanks for the tip on the UV marking on the newer boxes. I agree with you on all counts. As you say, I think a lot of folks still refer to problems with the original releases of the Atlas switches. I have not had any problems with their newer switches.
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Re: Atlas O Switch Failures

gunrunnerjohn ·
Replacing all the older switches isn't really practical unless we find a Sugar Daddy .
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Re: Atlas O Switch Failures

Roger L. ·
Yes, we have had several of those wires underneath the Atlas O switches fail on our club layout. We installed most of these switches circa 2002 when Atlas was using thin wires (they use thicker wires or bus bars on their switches now). Our normal solution is to solder a short wire from the center rail on the connecting track to the switch rail. However, the center rail on the switch is made of some alien metal that will not hold solder. So what I have had to do was to drill a small hole...
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Re: Atlas O Switch Failures

heiliner ·
Thanks Roger. Are you part of the group that runs the trains at Balboa Park? If so, I'm the guy that donated the track cleaning cars to the exhibit. I checked the Atlas On Line Store and they have a switch in stock, probably close to $125.00 with shipping. That's a killer. I'll try to repair the switch. Does the break occur between the center track and the frog? And I know, I've tried soldering the tracks before without any luck.
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Re: Atlas O Switch Failures

Roger L. ·
Yes I am part of the Balboa Park group, and thanks for the track cleaning cars. The alien metal part is the black center rail as shown by the arrows: The problem is the jumper wires on the underside of the switch which will sometimes burn out: The ideal solution (if you can remove the switch) is to unscrew the jumper cables, drill a bigger screw hole, and attach a larger gauge wire that you can connect directly to your power bus under the layout. However, if you can't remove the switch, you...
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Re: Atlas O Switch Failures

JohnGaltLine ·
I can't find anything to suggest the alien metal 3rd rail is anything but the same nickle-silver used in the other rails. It seems the blackening process just makes the metal not want to take solder. Has anyone tried taking a file, sand paper, or small dremmel tool grinding wheel to the side of the rail to remove the coating? JGL
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Re: Atlas O Switch Failures

ROGERW ·
What I've done to my switches when I have this problem is to solder the connecting center rails together. You need a high powered solder gun that gets the metal very hot, very fast to make this work. Once I solder both rails together, I then sand the solder down real smooth so that the rollers on the engines can roll over the center rails smoothly...................Roger
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Re: Atlas O Switch Failures

ROGERW ·
If you'll look closely at the center rails on the switches in the yard area, you can see where I solder the center rails together............rogerw.
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Re: Atlas O Switch Failures

Mike CT ·
Note that the metal cast V-shaped rail section center of the switch, as mentioned does not accept solder well. I have had success removing the blackening material carefully allowing the copper clad under the black to remain. The copper clad makes soldering a bit easier. Note the copper on this switch, sand too much, and the copper color goes away. This part of the switch does not appear to be nickel silver, which accepts solder relatively easy, may be, made of a cast steel, with the copper...
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Re: Atlas O Switch Failures

Keystoned Ed ·
We have a similar conductivity issue with "dead" AtlasO 2 rail turnout frogs. There is a manufacturing/design weakness with AtlasO turnouts - the electrical path between the cast rail/frog pieces and the metal feeders molded into the plastic ties sometimes fail. To prevent the problem I solder feeder wires directly to the cast frog. It isn't easy to solder to the cast metal but with enough heat and flux it can be done. As others have pointed it is important to shine up the metal on the...
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Re: Atlas O Switch Failures

Modelrailroader ·
I was just about to ask, how do you prevent the plastic ties from melting when you use so much heat from a soldering iron? Has anyone had problems with the plastic ties melting right away? Last question, do the current run of turnouts from China correct any of these problems?
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Re: Atlas O Switch Failures

rtr12 ·
Forum member Ingeniero No1 (Alex) came up with a great way to power Atlas track without soldering. It is described here Hidden Pass Junction RR in his build thread (about half way down on page 2 of the thread). He even gives us the drill bit size, wire size and screws he used, he's done all the head scratching for us and was kind enough to share the information. All you will need to do is figure out how to hide the wires. One way would be to go under the table and come back up. I believe you...
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Re: Atlas O Switch Failures

Roger L. ·
Glad to see some of you were able to solder wire to "V" rail. Depending on the location of the failed switch on our club layout, we were most times not in a good position to try hard enough. Also, we were always afraid of melting the plastic spikes. Because if we botched the job, then we would have to replace the switch, which was a lot more work. The "drill and fill" method I described above was relatively quick to do and allowed us to use a lower power soldering iron. I really like Atlas O...
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Re: Atlas O Switch Failures

prrhorseshoecurve ·
Also, we were always afraid of melting the plastic spikes. So what if you did? Just use HO spikes and some KRazy Glue and a #75drill bit and you are set!
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Re: Atlas O Switch Failures

heiliner ·
The photos and repair suggestions are outstanding. I ended up replacing the switch which was in a yard, a nightmare because of all the connecting switches. I am going to try to power the frog by drilling a couple of micro holes and running a jumper direct to the frog from the center rail. On the downside after I installed the new switch I somehow jammed a Z1000 switch motor. The motor survive but the Z two button controlled fried. I asked Zander but haven't heard back......do you know if an...
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Re: Atlas O Switch Failures

WP ·
The black finish on the center rails of our Gargraves track and Ross switches is also very hard to solder. We did something similar to what gunnerjohn did. I use a small narrow abrasive bit in my Dremel. I put the rounded tip on the side of the rail (flat side area between top and bottom of rail) and then grind off a quarter inch or so of the black finish. Then it is easy to solder. John
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Re: Atlas O Switch Failures

Engineer-Joe ·
I get a kick out of reading some posts of failures. Of course they all blame certain things. I wouldn't expect my switches to carry the current for a full large consist on my RR, while I have high amp draws. I would run my own jumpers at the least. Most of my blocks are created so the switches are at the very ends. They may carry the current of a single engine passing over. They don't have to carry the whole train's draw. I don't think it's just one manufacturer's switches. I don't think...
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Re: For Sale - K Line 21” aluminum, MTH Premier Pass Set, Subway set, Atlas O and K-Line Engines

nvrifle ·
Would you consider selling just the Santa Fe Cars or a Trade for Same PRR ? John
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Re: For Sale - K Line 21” aluminum, MTH Premier Pass Set, Subway set, Atlas O and K-Line Engines

Paul Finn ·
Hi John, Prefer to sell the Santa Fe Pass cars with the F7's at this time. If I hear from someone who just wants to buy the F7's I'll let you know.
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Re: New Projects From Atlas

Rule292 ·
I would LOVE if the Atlas O scale RS3 looked like that.... instead of with the toylike incorrect handrail mounting that it has now. I wonder if Atlas will ever make it correct.
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Re: New Projects From Atlas

jonnyspeed ·
Yeah, the Trainman RS3 has several issues that aren't to scale. The one that bothers me is the hoods are too high to cover the vertical motors. Once someone pointed that out I wrote them off.
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Re: New Projects From Atlas

SundayShunter ·
Yes, I have a Trainman RS3 - it was a bargain price here in the UK, but if I'd known about the high hoods beforehand I might have thought twice. They bug me mostly when I look at the shape of the cab center windows. I have replaced the end handrails with home-made longer ones, but have left the main handrails as supplied. The pilots also betray 3-rail origins. What's annoying is that the Atlas Master RS1 seems to have none of these issues..??
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Re: New Projects From Atlas

ecd15 ·
Atlas would have to scrap their current RS3 molds and start over to produce a scale RS3. Too bad they didn't get the Weaver RS3 molds.
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Re: New Projects From Atlas

Bob Delbridge ·
While I don't have an Atlas RS3 I do have both the MTH and the Weaver versions...IMO not a lot of difference between them as far as shape/size of the shell: Here's some measurements: Width: MTH - 1.68" Weaver - 1.58" difference - .10", less than 6 scale inches Height from walkway to top of hull: MTH - 1-7/8" Weaver - 1-13/16" difference - .0625", 3 scale inches Length of body from end to end of shell: MTH - 11-7/8" Weaver - 12" difference - .125", 6 scale inches Almost enough so you can't...
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Re: New Projects From Atlas

Big Jim ·
Yeah!!! How about an Alco T-6!!!
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Re: New Projects From Atlas

ecd15 ·
How about any Alco switcher with their single motor drive like their EMD switcher?
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Re: New Projects From Atlas

prrhorseshoecurve ·
Well I do! Look at the nose of the MTH unit. IT's FLAT! The Weaver Model Nose is more contoured to the real deal! here is a comparison of the WBB [Former K-line] to Weaver models: as you can see, the Weaver/Wbb-k-line has that curved "brow" in the front... more so than the MTH unit. the Mth Railking unit below: Unfortunately, the front nose curve issue is something that cannot be corrected with the MTH unit.
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Re: New Projects From Atlas

prrhorseshoecurve ·
And if Atlas O model is going to bring back the Rs11,s and the U25B's I hope they do these "HOT & COLORFUL" schemes!
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Re: New Projects From Atlas

MR-150 ·
Not to hijack a thread,did anyone acquire Weaver's RS3 molds
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Re: New Projects From Atlas

Rule292 ·
It seems elusive of O scale manufacturers to make an RS2/3 correctly with the handrail stanchions bolted to the top of the walkway as ALCo did on the real ones. Even AHM did it right in the 70's on the cheapie HO scale models.
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Re: New Projects From Atlas

hibar ·
You understand MTH, Lionel, Menards etc are not "O" scale mfgs/importers, only Atlas and Weaver started their O guage lines as scale "O" with necessary modifications for producing a 3 rail product also. When Atlas introduced the Trainman line it was with the purpose of making a more affordable, rugged entry level product, the RS series introduced in 2005 was their first motive power model in this line and it was obvious that the builder made changes in the model to probably meet the price...
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Re: New Projects From Atlas

CNJ #1601 ·
As evidenced by this one. # 1500 is rostered by the Grafton & Upton Railroad (a local short line here in MA). I grabbed these two quick shots with my iPhone today in the N. Grafton yard. Unique-looking locomotive to say the least!
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Re: New Projects From Atlas

CNJ #1601 ·
As for me, I'd like to see Atlas offer their Trainman RS3 in the later Lehigh Valley paint scheme shown below. Tuscan (not Cornell) Red with the white nose stripes. To the best of my knowledge this hasn't been offered in "O". I'd buy a couple road #'s and would have a blast super-detailing and weathering them!
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Re: New Projects From Atlas

EMD ·
A Conrail standard cab SD70 done to Atlas standards would be excellent!
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Re: New Projects From Atlas

WITZ 41 ·
I really like the tank cars that Atlas makes. Should be easy enough to release in new schemes. I'd be in for a couple UP Fish oil cars in different numbers....
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Re: New Projects From Atlas

AGHRMatt ·
Not sure how long Amtrak used them. I last saw one in the early 1990's. They were used in the coach yards to move stuff around. I can't remember what engines EMD wanted Santa Fe to trade the F-units in for (I think GP35's but don't quote me) but Santa Fe estimated that they could save $90,000 per unit converting them rather than trading them in. Across 200+ units, that was a healthy chunk of change. I had the data somewhere on what it actually cost per unit. I think the actual number was 233...
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Re: New Projects From Atlas

SundayShunter ·
No need to be an ATSF Foamer - as any fan of Short Lines knows, plenty of CF7s went to Regionals & Short Lines, and some are still active. It's a Freelancer's dream loco!!
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Re: New Projects From Atlas

Engineer-Joe ·
Thanks for the info!
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Re: Atlas O 10" straights with brown ties

Donna D-H ·
Thank you for your help- have now got the track I need. (Until the next great idea of expanding��.
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Re: Atlas O 10" straights with brown ties

Bill Robb ·
There seems to be much more Atlas O track with the dealers than last fall. Try searching for Atlas O 6050 if you no other replies.
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Re: Atlas O 10" straights with brown ties

pennsyfanman ·
Email sent
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Re: New Projects From Atlas

tom yorke ·
I have rebuilt two Atlas Plymouth WDT's in years past. The loco is too long. Even with the front porch removed, the rear one makes the loco several feet too long. If you can overlook this, the compressor bulges are on both sides where only one is prototypical and 99% of standard gauge units had inside frames. Atlas used a narrow gauge unit to copy! This is easy to fix however, since the frame sides simply pop out giving a much more prototypical look. Nevertheless, this loco is fairly easy to...
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Re: New Projects From Atlas

Rusty Traque ·
Found a picture of a Plymouth WDT with outside frames, in Mexico, I think. And lookie, it's even got a front porch like the Atlas model: It's even in Warbonnet! The Atlas model may have had some inaccuracies, but back in the day it was an attractive locomotive at an attractive price. Rusty
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