Tagged With "Red Caboose"

Topic

Red LED

MONK ·
Whats the other red LED in the TIU about, not the power one?
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Red Caboose O scale parts

rex desilets ·
Does anyone know what happened to the O scale Red Caboose kits and parts?
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Unmarked Red Wooden Bridge

Daniel Bruch ·
My dad and I picked this up off of a older gentleman in our town along with some pre-war Ives and Lionel trains.  The trains and bridge had been in his family as long as he could remember. The man died this summer.  We are trying to identify the bridge. It is unmarked but resembles photos of American Flyer bridges I have seen on the internet.  O-gauge track fits perfectly inside the bridge.  Anybody have a clue who made this? 
Topic

A little pick me up...

Keystone ·
after all the disappointing threads of the various Train and Hobby Shops that closed over the past year, this past Sunday's "Red and Rover" comic strip brought a smile.  Plus there's not much better than a boy and his dog, especially during the...
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Re: A little pick me up...

sp2207 ·
That is indeed a great pick me up. thanks for sharing it with us. Scot
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Re: A little pick me up...

TrainsRMe ·
That's cute - thanks.
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Re: Red Caboose O scale parts

Hot Water ·
Yes,,,,,,, someone knows.
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Re: Red Caboose O scale parts

Peter E B ·
That's very helpful, Hot Water. Rex, I don't believe anyone acquired the tooling. Many kits are still available on eBay. Peter
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Re: Red Caboose O scale parts

prrhorseshoecurve ·
Atlas O aquired the tooling. The remaining o scale stock made was purchased by various hobbyist and p&d hobby shop.
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Re: Red Caboose O scale parts

Jay C ·
Seems like P&D, along with Des Plaines, has some parts. I actually talked to Leon and Bill about it and was trying to work a deal for the remainder. Haven't talked to them about it in a while. Suffice it to say, there is a stash. All I'm sayin' bout dat!! Jay
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Re: Red Caboose O scale parts

rex desilets ·
I need parts for a tank car. Lost a handrail stanchion Wiseman sells same in brass, so that's my fallback. Ustabe I could and did buy parts for Intermountain kits.
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Re: Red Caboose O scale parts

Simon Winter ·
Atlas is selling the former Inter Mountain 8.000 gallon tank cars.....the Red Caboose version were 10,000 gallon..... IF Atlas has those they are NOT producing them at this point. If I were you I would go with Wiseman. Simon
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Re: Red Caboose O scale parts

mwb ·
Take your shoes and socks off and walk around a while -- you'll find it,
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Re: Red Caboose O scale parts

VGN64 ·
If you know someone going to Chicago next weekend I'm sure they can find anything you need.
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Re: P&D GP9 Drive Problems

PRR Man ·
the issue is not with the P&D drive parts, but the original Weaver sprockets. the acetal sprocket material was not aged and would split. if you don't have confidence in the P&D sprockets (I have had no problems with them over many years), you can also order them from Sterling Instruments.
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Re: P&D GP9 Drive Problems

prrjim ·
My experience has also been that the original Weaver gears and sprockets were prone to cracking. P&D has replaced the original weaver parts in their drives. Also replacements I got direct from weaver when they still serviced them worked out fine. That being said, you still might get a cracked gear or sprocket at some point. Or some other part. But the beauty of these drives is that yes you can do all the repairs and rebuilds yourself with a few hand tools and some patience. You do not...
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Re: P&D GP9 Drive Problems

AG ·
I used NWSL wheel set, and they are working perfect, beside the brass bushing included. Regarding the Fine scale 360 IMO is a big plus, because the chain links are, in some case not enough to adjust it properly so the chain will be too tight or too lose. my 2 cents. Andre.
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Re: P&D GP9 Drive Problems

Pete M ·
There's a lot of good info about this here: https://bobsobol.smugmug.com/T...PD-Drive-Train-Work/ I have shamelessly copied everything I learned there and from several threads on here with MaxSouthOz and others and it works great with the Finescale 360 chassis and drive upgrades. I recently added a Maxon coreless motor, Loksound Select HO decoder and Tang Band speaker to the upgrades on an RC GP9. My best running and sounding loco so far!
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Re: P&D GP9 Drive Problems

MaxSouthOz ·
I have done the yards on a Weaver, Stephen - and learned a lot in the process. No special tools required. This might help . . . https://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/t...first-attempt?page=1 Good Luck It will be fine.
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Re: P&D GP9 Drive Problems

big train ·
According to another post here on the forum, the Atlas gp9 frame will also work for this kit. It stands to reason, as Atlas bought the Red Caboose tooling. The Atlas frame shows in stock now at $14.95 each, although it does not include the pilots. I can't speak to amending or attaching original drive components to the Atlas frame. That may be more trouble than it's worth. Atlas gp9 sill unit Jim
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Re: P&D GP9 Drive Problems

riogrande491 ·
As for the metal lathe I used, if you stick to P&D replacement parts you can do everything with just hand tools. I wanted to change the sprocket ratio for slower speed running. That helped when I used non-back EMF decoders. These days the motor control in the Loksound L is so good I won't change any more drives. The original drive ratio also produces less chain noise. Because acetyl shrinks over time, there have been outbreaks of cracked gears in many vendor's products, even in certain...
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Re: P&D GP9 Drive Problems

Proto48Patrick ·
I might have some parts for free if you want them.
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Re: P&D GP9 Drive Problems

prrjim ·
I looked at the Atlas frame on line in the parts list. Based on the drawing, it does not look like the P&D conversion will be a drop in. I think you will have to drill and tap the aluminum frame to install truck bolsters. You have to cut and drill the original IM frame for this also. And it looks to me like the pilots and steps install totally differently on the Atlas. On the IM unit the pilot/step assembly is part of the shell and wold have to be cut off. On the Atlas it looks they are...
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Re: P&D GP9 Drive Problems

Jim 1939 ·
The P&D sprockets are quite reliable. Every Weaver sold had the sprockets changed before they were shipped out. No returns on those.
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Re: P&D GP9 Drive Problems

tigermoth ·
Hello Patrick. I certainly would be interested in what you may have. I have three Red Caboose kits (2 full kits and 1 body kit). I am going to convert the two powered units to DCC (dead rail I think at this point) using Loksound Decoders, Des Plains Hobbies frames and P&D drives (none of which I have purchased yet). My first attempt at DCC and first attempt with Dead Rail. Sincerely, Stephen Wilson
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Re: P&D GP9 Drive Problems

Pete M ·
Bob, I took your recommendation and used the T1-1925S. Cut off the end tabs and fixed it on some side plate "legs" behind the motor and above the drive. I 3M taped them to the sides of the Finescale 360 weights. It just fits but I had to shave the inside edges of the plastic frame/walkway piece that sits on the metal chassis slightly to get the body on. Excuse the spaghetti wiring, still in test phase, honest... I am continually amazed and inspired by what you and your colleagues are doing...
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Re: P&D GP9 Drive Problems

riogrande491 ·
Sorry about the thread drift. Pete—which Maxxon motor and from where did you procure it?
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Re: P&D GP9 Drive Problems

Pete M ·
Bob, it's a Maxon RE 25, model # 118751. I get them from The Motorman at micro-loco-motion.com Used and surplus coreless motors of variety! Same length as a Pittman 85xx but narrower at 25mm dia. Also the shafts have to be sleeved out from 3mm to ~4mm for Weaver/P&D drive. I've bought 4 so far, all work great. The spec sheet is borderline for HO decoders, but I've tested with 25 x 1lb cars on level track to make sure I could get away with it. Probably about 1/4 of what you'll need to...
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Re: P&D GP9 Drive Problems

Jay C ·
Here's how I fix them.... Mechanisms for Red Caboose GP-9s. P&D brass trucks and Des Plaines brass frames. As usual, Faulhaber gear head motors with everything turning 1:1 in ball bearings and wipers mounted in Delrin. Decoder is LokSound. They are new to me but from my limited knowledge they seem really good. One down, two to go. Two are P48, one is regular O Scale. Wheels spinning and maximum voltage (13.5 volts) draws .22 amps. My Pittman gear heads can't do it, plus they won't fit.
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Re: P&D GP9 Drive Problems

Ted S ·
Nice work Jay! What's your overall gear ratio (motor to the wheels), and top speed running light at 13.5 volts? Thanks!!
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Re: P&D GP9 Drive Problems

Jay C ·
Hey Ted, I was hoping nobody would ask! Actually, I haven't figured it out yet. The gear head motor is 14:1 The motor tower is 1:.82 The truck towers are 1.5:1 Top speed hasn't be computed yet. I just knew this set of ratios gave nice slow to medium speed for switching or yard work. Ball park 30 to 35 mph. If the customer wants to speed things up a bit we just change the upper pulleys and belts of the truck towers. Jay
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Re: P&D GP9 Drive Problems

Jay C ·
Ted, Overall works out to 17.2:1 Jay
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Re: P&D GP9 Drive Problems

riogrande491 ·
Jay - Can you post a photo or two of how you did the pickup wipers? Thanks! Bob S
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Re: P&D GP9 Drive Problems

Jay C ·
Bob S, The OC Cast/P&D truck is a real pain to install wipers. I like to machine my wiper mounts out of black delrin. I make them so, not only are the wipers are removable, but so are the mounts. I'll attach some photos I took the other day. Hopefully, they'll help. Jay
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Re: P&D GP9 Drive Problems

riogrande491 ·
How you attach the acetyl blocks is obvious. Your photos are quite helpful for that. Not so obvious is the shape and mounting of the wipers to the acetyl, and if the wipers are shaped with tabs or other details, how they are made/procured. Bob S
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Re: P&D GP9 Drive Problems

Jay C ·
I buy them, a sheet at a time, from Rod Miller. I'll try to add a link. http://www.rodmiller.com/parts.html#wipers Jay
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Re: P&D GP9 Drive Problems

riogrande491 ·
Thanks! How are they attached to the Delrin? I don't see a hole for a #0 screw per Rod's directions.
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Re: P&D GP9 Drive Problems

Jay C ·
You're kidding, right? The examples in the photo aren't finished yet. When drilled and tapped I use a 1.7mm screw. Jay
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Re: P&D GP9 Drive Problems

up148 ·
Sorry for the thread drift and for attaching the photo with my post, but I'm hoping Pete will respond. I see you are using the machined aluminum frame from Kelly ? (IIRC) and wondered if you have discovered or decided on a way to attach the RC shell and sill to this frame? I've got the same frame that Jay C. has done a wonderful job powering, but I haven't discovered a simply way to mount the RC shell/sill to it. Have you gone this far with your GP? Butch
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Re: P&D GP9 Drive Problems

Jay C ·
Hey Butch, Maybe you need to hire a better mechanic. This Jay C. guy sounds highly suspicious. Having said that, doesn't the shell just kind of snap in place. They seem pretty tight, to me. Jay
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Re: P&D GP9 Drive Problems

ecd15 ·
Yeah, and I never cared for Jay C.'s music either. Just not my style. Oh wait. That's Jay Z. Nevermind.
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Re: P&D GP9 Drive Problems

Gregg Laiben ·
I've got Kelly's frame which Jay motored up with dual Faulhabers. I've not finished out the body shell yet. But in test fits, as Jay indicated, it just slips down onto the frame pretty snug. ...gregg
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Re: P&D GP9 Drive Problems

up148 ·
Hi All and you too Jay , Yes, it's a fairly tight fit, but if you pick the loco up by the shell (I know, generally a no-no) it will pop right off in your hand and the frame, motor, trucks will drop out. I'll look at it better tonight as I forget exactly how RC did it, but IIRC, the RC plastic sub-frame allowed a couple of screws to hold the shell, walkway and sub-frame together. Kelly's frame replaces the RC sub-frame and the old type of installation is not possible, so we have to devise a...
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Re: P&D GP9 Drive Problems

Jay C ·
Well Butch, maybe a couple wraps-o-duct tape otta doer. Jay
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Re: P&D GP9 Drive Problems

Jay C ·
If duct tape is too much you might try this, http://www.finescale360.com/
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Re: P&D GP9 Drive Problems

riogrande491 ·
The RC shell was originally held in place by the coupler mounting screws on the ends, and a pair of hooks on each side of the motor mount that clamp over the deck. Don't file these off! In the photo above we see an older, modified DesPlaines brass frame. Bob S
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Re: P&D GP9 Drive Problems

Pete M ·
Bob is right, the 4 tangs on the stock motor mount still hold on the middle of the body in my setup. But they engage with the plastic floor piece not the hood piece so once you have the loco weighted like this, do not try to pick it up by just the hood... Also the couplers still hold on the front and rear as long as you use the Red Caboose coupler boxes. Might need a small shim to get the coupler height dead-on the Kadee gauge depending which trucks you use e.g Weaver plastic, P&D GP or...
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Re: P&D GP9 Drive Problems

riogrande491 ·
Sorry, I'm no help with coupler height. The milled aluminum frame may or may not be a different thickness at the coupler. I always measure and adjust when necessary. The deck should ride at the same height above the rail head so long as the P&D acetyl bolsters are mounted to the top of the frame and there isn't too much weight on the frame. The only differences in ride height I've experienced with P&D trucks was caused by different axle bearing spring rates. Some trucks I have from...
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Re: P&D GP9 Drive Problems

Pete M ·
Sorry Bob, I wasn't clear. The Finescale 360 frame does accommodate the RC coupler assembly properly. My coupler height comment was because I seem to have at least 2 heights of P&D (OCS) brass truck bolster on hand and I'm not sure which one is really right for the GP9. I do have some P&D F Unit brass trucks which I may have transposed. Needless to say, if I use the wrong one I get incorrect frame and coupler height. I recall seeing a picture online of 3 (may have been 2) P&D...
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Re: P&D GP9 Drive Problems

Jay C ·
FWIW, the P&D truck bolster, meant for the RC GP-9, has the letters "GP" cast right in. The only way to know for sure is to take the bolster off the truck (four screws), turn it over, and look. The "F" unit bolster looks the same but is considerably taller. If you use them on your GP it will sit way too high. Jay
 
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