I agree that using track planning software is probably the best way to go. As a child I used to scratch out some track plans using pencil and paper before constructing my carpet layouts. As an adult, I now use SCARM and couldn’t be happier with it. Like Nicks Trains said it’s free and easy to use.
The scale that you use depends on the size of the paper to fit the room and the layout on to it. Then you need a template for the curve radii that you plan to use to match that scale. What is not turning out for you? The room should be a simple exercise of converting it to your scale. Are you averse to using layout design software?
Michael, Go with track planning software. Its easy to do slight variations to the plan without losing the original. I must have hundreds of saved files for my current layout build, each one having a slight change to see what happens to the overall design. If I didn't like the change to the plan then I would go back to the previous saved version to try something else. If after doing many changes to get something I wanted but it didn't work out, I would go back many versions and start over...
Years ago when I drew track plans on paper, I generally used a scale of 3/4" = 1 foot, so 1/16" = 1 inch for convenience. Now I use SCARM because it makes easy work of track and turnout geometry, its relatively fast fun and easy, and has great 3-D imaging to plan scenery. SCARM has extensive track libraries for different brands of track, and you can do custom-spec flex-track arrangements. It's free software, you can't beat that!
Michael, there's plenty of help here and there are a lot of tutorials available for how to do things in SCARM. it may take a bit to get the hang of using software for design, but it's well worth it in the long run. And free is always good.
I am very old school (cuz' I'm old!, and my Dad was a mechanical engineer, too), and I like putting pencil to paper! I actually enjoy hand drawing and counting the little squares- using four squares equals one foot, one square equals three inches. So I do use graph paper. I tape pieces together to make it big enough. I add colored marker pens to emphasize certain things.
I also use v5 of RR-Track because SCARM didn't come out until after I started back in the hobby. I then convert my designs to SCARM for the different 3D view. They both have their pros and cons, but SCARM is still free, so that's a bonus.
Carey, I have attached what you should have downloaded from SCARM. The SCARM author, Mixy, allows advertisements on his webpage to fund his efforts, and, often, those advertisers use somewhat deceptive practices or placements to get you to download their product. Use what you see below. Chuck
I agree with everyone in using a computer program, just like we do in real life for buildings, bridges, roads, and everything else. If you are curious about drawing scales. Lookup architectural scale online. This will explain the method and madness behind 3/4" = 1'-0" or whatever scale you want. This may help you if you print your drawings to scale and need to measure something if you didn't dimension. Chris
Carey, Safari is a browser and should not have been trying to open the SCARM program. If you downloaded the SCARM program on to an Apple product, as Dave noted above, it will not work unless you first obtain a Windows emulator program. On the other hand, if you downloaded it to a Windows operated machine, simply find the download file on your drive and double click on it. SCARM will then install. Chuck
I used RR-Tracks to draw my layout. Once you get the hang of it it's fun and easy. It's pc based so if you gave a Mac you must be willing to use a virtual Windows, or whatever it's called, platform. Never tried SCRAM but I did use pencil and graph paper with a CTT Track Template made of plastic that had scale outlines of the common Lionel track. That was fun too, taping enough sheets of paper together to represent your space, tracing, erasing, tracing dome more... Mike
Check to make sure the trucks pivot freely and aren't binding in one direction. I've had engines where a wire going to one truck didn't have enough slack and would let the truck swivel fine in one direction, but not the other. Also check the gauge of your wheelsets.
Thanks for the info. I think the wiring on the truck is tight like you said. The truck isn't turning enough to go around the 031 track in places. I took the cork road bed out from under the switches to lower them a little. Seems to be working better. I'll check the gauge. Thanks for the info, I think I'm going in the right direction now. Thanks to all.
There is a flat spring under the pickup piece that provides the flexing. See the spring in your picture of your post of 12/17/2015. The pick up piece has a slot in one end and a key in the other end that allows it to move. The pickup piece can be cut from some tin can stock with small tin snips. It may have to be made in two pieces. The slot can be made by drilling several small holes. A Dremel Moto grinder with various bits and cut off wheel can be helpful. Charlie
Manual switches are cheaper but it is still a lot of coin flowing out at one time for only being used for a short time during the year. I had trouble justifying the expense with my wife. Also, I got kicked out from under the tree but we have a spare room for storage and kids' use in the basement I got permission to take over so that worked to my benefit. In a previous year, got a couple of folding picnic tables and kicked the car out of the garage for a month. Like you I was looking to do...
Hi Mike, The door I currently have is 32" wide. I interested to see how much I need to add the door to get the curved section in. Also trying to get the dimension (outer tie to outer tie at the half curve for my calculations. Thanks Mike
I just re-wired everything and, I'm not exactly sure what happened, but all of a sudden it's working perfectly. I didn't change anything from the diagram (LED still included). The only thing I can think of was I removed an un-used lock on that was really rusty. Anyway, thanks everyone for your suggestions!
I see that Menards makes an O-96 radius track. I'd like to make a dual track mainline for my upcoming layout. I don't see an O-80 radius curve on their site. Would any manufacturers make an O-80 ? Using O-72 and O-96 leaves a 12" space between tracks. Plenty of room for an additional track.
I acquired all my tubular O-gauge track second-hand through train shows and private sales, but it took a while to find the full variety of O31-O42-O54-O72 curves. Some of the track needed a lot of elbow grease to clean up. Buy new track if you prefer to spend money instead of time. I bought a good variety of clean used O27 wider-radius track off this forum. One other uncommon size: prewar American Flyer O-gauge had O40 curves. It's compatible with Lionel tubular track.
In the 2002 K line catalog there are the following O gauge curve tracks, 0-31, K-0302; 0-42, K-0312; 0-54, K-0318; 0-63, K-319; 0-72, K-0322; 0-81, K-0320; 0-96, K-0323; 0-120, K-0324. To find find the curves today watch the bay, call the old Kline super stores, call the large old Lionel stores, watch the club news letters, let people know you are looking for it.
David: Thanks. I was waiting for someone to mention the K-Line curves. I can add that the larger O curves manufactured by K-Line are very thinly traded these days. They do show up from time to time on a popular auction site, but you'll need to set a standing search and be patient, patient, patient. I.e., there aren't 14 different sets to choose from to finish your layout this weekend. Ironically, three different auctions featuring these curves happened in January and February, 2016, but...
K line made an 81 inch diameter O gauge track. It was only made one year and is getting a little hard to find. Most of the large diameter track is 16 sections to a circle. So you can use one piece of one size larger at the entrance and exit to a curve to act as an easement.
Take a look at Norm Charbonneau's - he is using a 28" TT with the same RH - it may give you some ideas on where it should be placed based on how the whiskers and support tracks should be configured. More like 3' x 8' area. His track plan is attached and here is his build thread . (about 3 years to get to this point) His space is about 1/3 larger than yours - 29' x 36'
Yes moving it out if the loop might be of benefit. I like Carl's suggestion of using Norms plan where the turntable 28" is its own separate area too. Kevin I think you nee to label your room on your plan. Where are the doors? Windows? Mechanical HVAC room etc. labeling is easier to visualize.
Kevin, To build on what Carl said, later in that same thread Norm posted a photo of his old layout with the TT/RH in a different location and slightly different configuration. IMHO, the thing to take away from both photos is the configuration of the whisker tracks. Note that his are close together directly across from the entry and not spread out like a fan. You both have 9 whisker tracks, but his is only 4' wide and 8' long whereas yours is 6' wide and 8' long. I can't figure out how he did...
Carl, Half way through building Norm returned to something more similar to his original layout. Here's the last plan that he posted. He currently has a thread on the Scenery and Structures Forum. https://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/t...-eventual-roundhouse Jan
Team, Got called into work around noon yesterday, just got home, so I was not able to post the PDF with the room dimensions requested, Plus I see lots of new comments to go through. Attached is the new PDF with a legend of the over all room. I coded that alphabetically. The outside wall, the foundation of the house runs on the right side of the diagram. Kevin
George, got it - with all the active threads gets a little confusing. Alex, will take a look at the video. My TT is a Millhouse River TT - 28 inches and the RH is from Atloona Model Works 5 stall and one extended on the fight to handle larger engines. S I am going to read through all these threads and capture as much as possible. I understand the concept of the yard under the TT and yard to reduce the grade - I think that is important - so it looks more realistic. Thanks to all. I will pull...
Dave, RR-Tracks for me is still a work in progress. Messing around with it a little while ago, cant get it do what I want it to do so operator error - it wins for now. Getting back to your comments above, yes, I will have a little more space. My only constraint is that my 28 in TT approach track needs to be straight into the first stall on the RH. I wasn't sure If I really wanted a 30 or 34 inch TT and now I regret not getting one of them. I purchased a BB so the only way to get into the RH...
Kevin, the last drawing is from Norm's previous layout where he had his TT/RH in a different location. Carl indicated it's the same TT and RH that you have. My intent was to show you a different configuration vs the long approach in the link Carl posted and to show how much smaller his footprint is. However, if your footprint is larger, perhaps because you have the extended RH, then I would figure out where it fits best. I wouldn't give up the extended RH, I'd design around it. If what you...
Dave, This was what I thought was rock solid, moving the TT and RH off to the side like norm did. Then I think it opens the layout for more options. I though just having it in the middle visually made sense but as I read all these options, now I wonder if Norm has the right idea of segmenting it off to say corner H / G of my drawing then starting from that point. I do like the addition of the purple tracks in from of the TT. I am drawing out a few ideas on paper simple because for me it is...
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