Several hours later, six sheets are cut . All of the parts are laid out and then a decision of where to start with the assembly of the kit. We try to start with the largest part of the structure and build from there. Important aspects of the kit are observed, such as strengthening walls, gluing what part to what part and most important is how to explain in detail to the end user so it is as clear as possible. We build as this will be on our own layout but keeping in mind that others will be...
Hello again, I have been approached to buy an unbuilt CLW FA-1 / FB-1 set of Brass Section 1/2 Kits that are missing both the printed Instructions and parts lists. As a result I'm trying to determine which of these Kit's brass parts may be missing, but finding copies of the original Instructions and Parts List is difficult. As a result, I'm trying to find and download an online set of Central Locomotive Works (CLW) FA-1 / FB-1 Build Instructions & Parts List for these Brass Kits in PDF...
If you have one of these, pay no attention to the instructions I posted above. Everything is mislabeled on my unit and the instruction sheet is wrong too. to compound the confusion, the connections are not on a corner that looks like this picture, even in x-ray vision mode from above. turn your unit upside down so you can see what color wires are coming from the terminals. With the back shop in the front, as you lift the unit to turn it over, my red / black power terminal is the one on the...
hi Matt it's a booster (an extra set of cilinders) ,to give more pulling power for a short time with the 3 cilinders and it's booster i had a traction effort off 89000lb (without booster 750000lb) i have scanned a model railroader from 1971, for those who wants to put more details on it Cor
is it only the motor you are missing? the motorising kit was with the wheels with a steel rim and pick ups. all pictures and text in red on the manual are the extras who came in the motorising kit any 12v motor will do fine, i have put a faulhaber in it, a bit larger then the origional , but with some try and error it is posible post some pictures ,its easyer to see what your problem is Cor
Hi I can post pictures but all I have is literally many bags (and I mean LOTS of bags - according to the shipping weight 6 pounds of them - supposedly enough for 5 engines and 1 tender) of plastic only parts with 95% of all the pieces still on the sprue I needed your instructions just so I could start to sort all the various pieces out. I think they may have even included parts from other kits LOL There are no metal parts at all (no wheels, pickups, wires etc) so I imagine I would need what...
best thing to do can be , buy annother one cIAAOSw44BYTZvE" target="_blank">http://www.ebay.com/itm/model-...f:g cIAAOSw44BYTZvE here you have one (i think cheap) , and maybe there are forum members who can help you on this otherwise you have a shelf queen. if it is the model you like, you can take a look on the www and look for a KMT , i believe, they made a brass one how i know, i have 3 of them and doing a remotering on them Cor
Hi Moonlicht I rechecked definitely no metal parts. So it looks like its a shelf queen and a parts box item (lots of parts LOL) OH Well I might be able to buy a damaged working similar model and kit bash this to fit on the chassis but that is a project for an other time Thank you for all your effort on my behalf
Yes it's a bit sad you can't get it up and running they look good on the track crawling slowly through a maze of turnouts but then I suppose Brass one's are the same except I've never seen a brass locomotive in standard O scale and probably never will. I can live without them, I have plenty of Rivarossi 0-8-0 kits to play with and the layout is completely diesel for operations. Roo.
Yes - they are beautiful models, and in the proper scale for the track gauge. But motorizing them does little to make them better. You would really need a better engine bed and metal drivers, with a good NWSL gearbox and an 8000-series Pittman or equivalent. I had one, motorized, and loved the detail, but as a runner it sucked. The KTM version is 1/4" scale, and not as well detailed, but it will run better. They are showing up at around $450 on eBay.
Two issues with the had cars. 1: the bar must engage the fork under the shell that provides the up/down motion. If the body was removed, it may not have been reinstalled correctly to properly engage the fork. If the arm is forced, the pin on the arm that engages the fork will break off, necessitating replacing the arm assembly. 2) the idler gear may disintegrate causing the mechanism to jam. It is nearly impossible to replace this gear.
Best way to do it is to power it so the fork stops directly in the center, then with the arm level, lower it squarely over the frame. You can sometimes peek through the slot or from the bottom to see if the fork lines up with the pin.
Lou in California may have the missing parts. As for the instructions - if you need a step-by-step to put this thing together, stay away from it. These things are best assembled by knowing where stuff goes. Put the big stuff together first, then add the small stuff.
Hi Karl and thanks for the response, The URL Link you posted and suggested I contact for the research Desk at the Kalmbach Library leads to the NMRA.org website Login that is apparently managed/updated by Kalmbach Publishing. The Research Desk you mention is no longer available until sometime in 2018 due to merger delays/resource limitations with the CRSM Library. Here is the Kalmbach website posting about the Research Desk closing due to research materials now held in storage... Regards,...
my current lumber mill sticks, so the log belt runs intermittently. Even when the cover is off, the belt is hesitant/stops. It seems that the two log transport fixtures cause enough friction to make the belt slip, even without the logs running. Suggestions.?
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