Good advice on the size of the wheels. The bigger the wheel, the easier it will roll over any expansion joints or cracks if you are on a concrete floor. They also work better on carpet. If you have a choice, I would opt for softer rather than harder wheels.
These are definitely encouraging replies. A fellow at the hardware store suggested that I just be sure to not use too small of a wheel size, especially on a carpeted surface, because the weight of the layout will naturally make the wheels press down into the carpet and make it all the harder to start sliding the layout away from the wall. A medium or larger wheel size will be less likely to burrow into the carpet from just sitting there all the time. Made sense. Each of these layouts above...
Hi This is my nscale layout. It is about 16 x 3 with a 4x8 extension. The whole thing is on heavy duty casters And rolls around the room easily for access. I even put a laminate floor and subfloor down after its contruction because I just moved it to one side of the room While working on the other. rick
If your bench work is strong enough you can move it in one piece. Mine is 36'x22'oval I cut it in half on each end and moved the whole 36' no problem. I used those furniture sliders. I used three people. Strong ridged bench work and good industrial casters are a must for no damage. Clem
I used an old 4'x8' dining table and put 3"castors with locks on it. I have now expanded it to 6'x12' and put castors on those legs as well. The transformer table is an old living room table with 2" castors on it. This works very well and let's this 67 yo. roll the table out 18" from the wall to work on the back side by myself. I bought all the castors at Harbor Freight for very cheap prices. This is still in the beginning stage of creating the layout on top so wiring etc is temporary. Azgary
Take a look at commercial grade ball wheels\casters. They won't hang like a standard caster wheel when it needs to pivot or change direction. The other consideration is framing. You'll definitely need stronger framing and perhaps diagonal supports for the legs. We are working on an 11 x 17 restoration project for a museum . The director thinks it may need to moved when in it's display location and has asked us to consider wheels. It's all 1" x 4 framing with 2" x 4" legs and is 4 levels...
I never used wheels, but I did use modules from the club tour. The permanent layout could function as a C shaped dog bone or folded dog bone. But adding the modules closed the loop. If you need room, I took down the modules but could still run trains.
I bought mine at Lowes. They are the heavy duty type with hard rubber and 4 inch diameter lagged into the sub-frame which allows the entire L-shaped layout as heavy as it is to move easily about the area. In fact I am repainting the walls and have been moving it around all week! LOL
And now on another visit to the hardware store (non-train-related purchases, sadly) the same clerk, who I think may be a train guy himself, volunteers that I should re-think wheels altogether and instead plan on sufficiently sized legs (i.e. thick enough) that I can adhere those slick furniture slide pads onto. Suggests that I'll be happier that way than with wheels. Decisions, decisions...
Viewing some of the layouts here at the OGR forum, and elsewhere, including some lighter weight construction HO/N scale layouts at other forums and sites, I see that quite a few are on wheels, presumably to provide access to the back sides for layouts...
For the few high-risk spots where trains swing through curves that are close to the table's edge, I've tried to place a raised edge of scenery or berm in an attempt to create a sort of "guard rail" in case of derailment. The straightaways are lower risk, except for the elbow-bumps, but they're rare (so far). Unless you have lots of little fingers grabbing trains, the Plexiglas shield could be more of a hindrance to the operators, IMHO.
I make sure that I let my trains watch as much TV as they want and I let them have pizza anytime they want it....that way they don't "Run Away"... Sorry, couldn't stop myself... I have not used any barrier or retaining wall to prevent trains from taking the "leap of death" to the floor. I did make a point of putting carpet on the floor, but that is as much for warmth and insulation as for "crash pad". IF I felt that I needed that type of protection in one spot, I would likely opt for cut...
I too used the rigid foam but in blue as our dyi store don,t carry the big sheets. I use the talus and this is what I did. I used and old blend or to get some smaller pieces so I can vary in size. I then sprayed with soapy water on a piece of card board. at his helps break the surface tension which you will need to do when you paint the carved rocks. After the soapy water dried I used various Michaels acrylic paints to meet my desired color. In smaller amounts I used a mixture of acrylic...
The backside of my mountain is pretty much carved. Still a long way from finished but i think the bulk of the carving is finished. I have a pretty good pile of small pieces on the floor. I've seen some posts where this is used for talus but i have no idea how to do that since I can't just soak it all in a bucket of brown. The foam doesn't absorb liquid unless I'm missing something. My question would be how do you color a large amount of small chunks of pink foam to simulate rocks?
Hello Everyone, Am wondering if I have run into a dead end here: purchased a Lionel CAB-1 Remote & Base 1 off of Fleabay. Items arrived appearing new or near new.........except............. Missing the 12 volt wall-wart. Lionel website appears to no longer stock such. Would anyone here have one for sale? Can purchase via Paypal, Credit Card, check, etc. Thank you kindly for any answer! Lothar Baudler firstname.lastname@example.org ("Rebuilding the Milwaukee Road with pennies & nickles........")
Here is a photo of the construction of a subway tunnel's inner wall as it divides 2 tracks. Not sure if I want to put "No Clearance" strips. Basically I encase my beams in ABS strips. Here is the design using SketchUp.
Hi, I'm planning a layout for a public "train day" fundraising event in my town. I will set up a 4x8 layout for about 6 hours and lots of kids are expected to attend. I would like to construct a see-through wall (acrylic?) about 2 ft high around the layout. It has to be sturdy so the kids can't reach into the layout and move or take items. It also have to allow features for quick setup/takedown since this layout will be active for about 6 hours. what are you suggestions for materials/methods...
Well, I would use at least a 14 gauge with a ground in a three prong outlet preferably on it's own breaker. Lionel still has the 2006 manual for PH-180's which only rates input voltage and output volts and amps. if you are using a PW360 you must have a multiple engine train that needs more than 9.5-10amps. Better to have ample capacity on the extension cord the same as house wiring. That pair of bricks will warm up a light gauge extension cord. No 18 gauge lamp cords for that application.
Everything electrical should have it's voltage & amp draw printed on it. Our power supplies also list the output. In & out is mostly listed/grouped logically, so just add up the total amp draws on the 120v side and make sure your ext.cord can handle it.... That max is normally inked or embossed on the cord or plug if you look close. With an appliance extention cord you might be ok with all three.... depending on the wall outlets rating...then breakers...etc
Hello Friends, I’m installing a power master 360 and two 180w powerhouses to my main line. My question is about extension cords? Can I use one beefy cord with a splitter and plug in both 180w units into that cord (one outlet)? The outlet is near the dryer. I welcome your thoughts.
Yes. The power our trains consume is on the low end of the scale. Much less than ordinary appliances. The worry about extension cords and such comes when using command bases. They need a good strong, clean ground connection.
The (6) duplex outlets are wired to one male cord end adaptor, bottom edge of picture, yellow. One power cord, usually a good #12 gauge, grounded extension cord, supplies all the power to the Fort Pitt Modular display. At times the twelve outlets shown are used. Extension cords, to each member's modules, for their display pieces, but still one circuit. One wall wart pictured is for the TMCC base unit, left in picture. The other wall wart is power to an SC-2 controller on the "Y" module...
A good 14 gauge/ 3-wire extension cord with a good quality power strip will be fine. The power strip should have surge protection in it as well. A 15 amp / 120 volt circuit will carry 1800 watts AC with no problem.
My personal preference is for the interiors to be finished to the distance you can see into the tunnel. You can even add humorous scenes in little nooks and crannies inside. Since most tunnels are made of foam what I've always done is to lay down the foam on a gravel lot or driveway and stand on it and rock back and forth - the indentations made look like natural rock when paint is added. My friend and fellow forumite Owen Sturm, who departed this life far too early, suggested this to me...
I cared at the entrances, for some distance inward. Seeing raw plywood at the mouths, from the viewing aisles, would have been a detraction, as far as I was concerned.... FrankM, Moon Township, USA, layout
What I have used is 15lb. felt roofing paper otherwise know as tar paper. What I did was measure my width cut it and then crumble it into a ball then walk on it. Unravel it and then staple it to the sides of the interior of the tunnel. Looks like real rock that is black. Works for me.
I'm beginning to think layout this mid August. I'm posing the question about tunnel interiors. How important has it been for your tunnels to have special design, such as rock walls, or concrete smooth walls? I've spray painted the interior that is already in place. Now I'm ready to put in place more wood deck and Styrofoam walls to create the train tunnel scene.
I use black foam core for 12-24 inches (sides & roof), and then rock castings made with Brandon's cast satin to wrap around the sides and roof for first 8 inches into the entrance. My goal is to avoid seeing layout structure when casually looking into the tunnel. Looks very real.
Powered up the outer mainline (dogbone), tested a conventional engine. Noticed that several cars, not on the mainline were lit up, while on sidings. So all the track are getting juice. Next step, properly adding a tmcc to my Legacy controller. Then test #2.
One of my winter projects will be to correct an oversight my leaving the tunnel interior unfinished. Because of the angle to the room anyone looking can see straight through the 3 foot length to the other side but the raw interior takes away from the scene.
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