Tagged With "Battery"

Topic

engine in remote PS2

Pine Run RR ·
For some reason I deleted an engine in my remote. I tried adding again. The display said engine in remote. It is a PS2 engine. I replace battery with the a new RED battery. Same message. I tried READ button. No luck. Any ideas? I tried in conventional mode. No luck.
Topic

Model Train Control System for O Gauge

Aaron Jamison ·
Too long, don't want to read? Skip to the video and picture links So, I've been working on this electronics system for an O gauge locomotive on and off for the past 8 months-ish and want to share with you guys what I've done so far for anyone who is interested in this kind of stuff. I am relatively new to this forum, but I have done some business through the WTB section. @Budkole sold me the beautiful locomotive 5426 you see in the video. It worked out fairly well...
Topic

Steam engine goes dead after a few inches in either direction

leeg ·
Picked up a new MTH railking steam engine with ps2 on eBay, may have been on the shelf to long. Starts up fine in DCS, but dies after a few inched in either direction. I can change the battery but was told that really doesn't matter as far as engine movement. What is the correct answer to solve this problem?
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MTH Proto 1 Engines with Original Battery

Arnold D. Cribari ·
I know many Forum members have replaced the original batteries in their MTH Proto 1 locomotives. I have not done that, and all 10 of my MTH Proto 1 engines (most of mine are RailKing) with original battery run perfectly fine, and have stood the test of time. Most of them are over 15 years old. A train repair guy at my LHS told me long ago to run my MTH Proto 1 locomotives at least once every 6 months. I have made a point of running them at least once every 4 months. Do you agree that MTH...
Topic

Removing the shell from a RailKing RS-11, Product No. 30-2818-1

Pitts ·
Good Day to Everyone! I have a RailKing Northern Pacific RS-11, PS2 / 3Volt system, product no. 30-2818-1, which is operating a little erratic. It's been boxed for a little over 5 years now, and likes to shutdown and restart in conventional mode when crossing onto older sections of track. The battery is original and likely just needs to be replaced. I plan to get a BCR2 for it, since I'll be in there and get it done. I was hoping someone may have a tip or two with removing the shell to...
Topic

Replacing Batteries with BCRs in MTH PS1 and PS2 Locomotives

MELGAR ·
Recently, for the first time in a long while, I ran two of my favorite older MTH Railking locomotives, a New York Central 0-8-0 steam switcher with PS1 and a New York Central EMD SW-1500 diesel with 5-volt PS2. I ran them long enough to charge the batteries but the shutdown sounds indicated that the batteries were not well charged, so I ordered BCRs and installed them today. The battery in the tender of the steamer was accessible and easy to replace – sorry but no photo. The diesel was...
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Re: EM-1 (6-28051) won't run on conventional power SOLVED!!

chris a ·
Thanks for posting this TRW, my EM-1 is showing same symptom.... It's nice to be able to come here do a search and find a posting like this.
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Re: EM-1 (6-28051) won't run on conventional power SOLVED!!

Former Member ·
I have seen this on a few Legacy and TMCC steamers, tt may need to be reset with a cab1 remote. That process will be in the manual.
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Re: EM-1 (6-28051) won't run on conventional power SOLVED!!

Marty Fitzhenry ·
How about an item number.
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Re: EM-1 (6-28051) won't run on conventional power SOLVED!!

PaperTRW ·
He listed the item number in his title, Marty. It sounds like you might have the problem that afflicts all 6-28051 B&O EM-1's. The "pulsating noise" you hear from the rear of the locomotive is likely the motor spinning without a firm connection to the drive shaft. All of the 6-28051 B&O EM-1's from the factory had a defect in the driveline -- the driveshaft wasn't fixed to the coupling to the motor. Lionel offers a repair service (a $20 charge) to fix it. I hope this helps. TRW
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Re: EM-1 (6-28051) won't run on conventional power SOLVED!!

arcticrail ·
Thanks for the responses guys. I did see the reset instructions in the manual, I'll have to hunt down a Cab-1 unit to do the reset. I'll check that first before checking the drive shaft. Might take a few days but I'll post a response on what I find. Have a good weekend.... Kenny
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Re: EM-1 (6-28051) won't run on conventional power SOLVED!!

J Daddy ·
Last time I tried to repair mine the parts where un-available. I was able to purchase the Allegheny drive mechanism and modify it. Note that the knuckles in the U joint tend to snap to... the plastic material tends to dry out.
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Re: EM-1 (6-28051) won't run on conventional power SOLVED!!

Marty Fitzhenry ·
It is listed now. TY.
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Re: EM-1 (6-28051) won't run on conventional power SOLVED!!

arcticrail ·
SOLVED!!! It was the coupling slipping on the shaft as PAPERTRW suggested. I ended up drilling and pinning the coupling to the shaft. Odd that the coupling already had one hole drilled but no physical means of locking the two together, go figure. In any case, thanks for the replies and suggestions, was really glad to have this one running before Christmas!! Now off to figure out why the smoke unit isn't puffing.....always something. Merry Christmas to you all! Kenny
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Re: Lionel Horn Battery Replacement Question

OldBogie ·
Buck boost converter TI has some. Bogie
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Re: Lionel Horn Battery Replacement Question

Richard Gonzales ·
Glenn, Consider converting the required D cell battery to a 9 volt battery. I connect the + wire on the battery connector to the horn relay connection that supplied power to the horn. Connect the - ground wire on the battery connector to the engine frame. Insert a 9 volt battery in the battery connector. The horn will work, and will have a louder sound. This solution will bi pass the corrosion problem. If the old post war horn is sluggish or still does not work you can zap the horn with 18v...
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Re: Lionel Horn Battery Replacement Question

Ron Misch ·
Any idea of the long term effect putting 9V to the horn coil in lieu of the 1.5 V from a"D" cell. Will this lead to coil failure?
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Re: Lionel Horn Battery Replacement Question

Richard Gonzales ·
Ron, i have not noticed any long term effects on the horn coil. I believe the original Lionel post war horns were essentially bicycle horns and they are quite durable. The metal horn bracket that carries the 1.5 v DC for the horn deteriorates over time. The 9 v DC battery solution bypasses the old metal horn bracket. I also believe that the 9v DC passes those 60+ year old horn relay contacts much easier than 1.5v DC Richard
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Re: Lionel Horn Battery Replacement Question

Ron Misch ·
Thanks for the information. My electrical knowledge is very limited. I did try the 9V on a replacement horn with a temp. connection on the bench and agree the sound is much better.
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Re: Lionel Horn Battery Replacement Question

GIO ·
I just did the 9V conversion to my loco and WOW, the horn really gives a wake-up call now. Don't know what this means for the life expectancy of the horn, but it will be fun while it lasts. Glenn
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Re: Lionel Horn Battery Replacement Question

Richard Gonzales ·
Glenn, I do not think the 9v DC will hurt the horns. It is nothing more then a vibrating coil. I am not curtain when the 9v DC battery appeared on the market, but I would think that if they were around when Lionel developed the F3 prior to the 1948 release of the 2333's Lionel would have used them instead of the 1.5v DC battery. This is just speculation on my part. Another advantage to the 9v DC battery is the corrosion problem. I can not recall ever seeing a 9v battery leak and cause a...
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Re: Lionel Horn Battery Replacement Question

rrvics ·
Years ago I refitted my post war diesels with Radio Shack battery holders that fit 2 AA batteries. The horns work perfectly. Three volts is all you need.
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Re: Lionel Horn Battery Replacement Question

Ace ·
I had a battery mishap in my Lionel 2343. The battery wasn't real old but I discovered there was a small dent in the case which developed into a leak. Lesson learned: inspect new batteries carefully for physical damage. I took the entire loco apart to clean it up. Some day I'll make a battery-free horn circuit for it.
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Re: Lionel Horn Battery Replacement Question

Richard Gonzales ·
Vic, Good idea. I think any thing greater than 1.5v will make the horn work better. The 9v battery was a quick fix for me since I had the 9v battery connectors and a 9v battery on hand. The horn really has a nice high pitch sound now. Ouch ACE! At least you caught it before it ruined the engine. I guess back in the days when an F3 was put away after Christmas with a battery in it the owner would find their engine ruined months later. Thanks for sharing the pictures. Richard
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Re: engine in remote PS2

Pine Run RR ·
Thanks to all who helped me with this issue. Turns out the board is shot. Took engine to a MTH repair shop to have checked out.
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Re: engine in remote PS2

Krieglok ·
I was afraid of that when I saw it had a 5 volt board. The 5 volt boards have a checkered past, just quitting without warning. I guess an upgrade would be in order but that might be expensive. Hope you can get the engine running again. Tom
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Re: engine in remote PS2

Krieglok ·
A red battery? Do you mean a BCR? If you can, post the MTH model number of the locomotive. It makes trouble shooting much easier if we know what we are dealing with. Once you do that, the more experienced repair guys will chime in and help. Tom
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Re: engine in remote PS2

Pine Run RR ·
Yes a BCR. Engine #30-1170-1. Thank you.
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Re: engine in remote PS2

Krieglok ·
Just a few checks... let the BCR charge up a bit. Also make sure the teather from the tender is seated in the receptacle on the locomotive. You may want to disconnect the teather and reconnect. Try doing a factory reset on the engine if you can find the engine name/number on your controller. It will delete the engine in the process and then you can re-enter the locomotive. I am no expert, I am just relating things that have worked for me in the past... Tom
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Re: engine in remote PS2

Barry Broskowitz ·
Andy, I tried adding again. The display said engine in remote. The message means just what it says. DCS looked on all powered tracks and the only engines it found were already in the remote. Further, after it displays the message, the Engine Screen shows the engine to which it's referring. Do the following: Have only the subject engine powered up. Ensure that no other engines are getting power. Press: Menu/System/Engine Setup/Add Engine/Add DCS Engine If you get the Engine in Remote message,...
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Re: engine in remote PS2

Pine Run RR ·
Barry, I doubled checked to see that the BCR is tight. I now get no engine to add when I try to add engine. When I bought the new BCR I just put it in the tender. I know I have power to track and I removed all other engines before starting. Thank you for any information you can share.
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Re: engine in remote PS2

Krieglok ·
Does the locomotive operate in conventional mode? Tom
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Re: engine in remote PS2

Pine Run RR ·
Tom, No it does not.
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Re: engine in remote PS2

Krieglok ·
Okay, there is a problem but not with the DCS. It should run in conventional mode, no matter what, if the teather is okay, track is properly wired and no wires/connections are damaged, among other possible issues. I am guessing the engine has a 5v control system. It could be an issue with that since it doesn't run at all. Make sure your power supply is good. Try running a different engine to make sure. Be sure you have clean wheels and clean rail. I understand you may have done all this, I...
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Re: engine in remote PS2

Engineer-Joe ·
The fact that it does not run at all is where to start. Is there any click when it sees power? Has the tether acted up? any sounds cutting out or stuttering? Can you test the BCR? is it charged? https://mthtrains.com/30-1170-1
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Re: Battery needed??

DMASSO ·
SELF-RECHARGING BATTERY BACKUP ProtoSounds® state-of-the-art design includes a self-recharging battery backup system for improved performance at any speed. The battery ensures that power to the sound system will remain on during directional changes, setting RESET options or when traveling over dirty track and switches. The self-recharging battery backup system is automatically turned on or off whenever track power is turned on or off. There are no switches needed to enjoy the benefits of the...
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Re: Battery needed??

Tom weaver ·
Don, what battery would this have? and can it be replaced with one of BCR?
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Re: Battery needed??

DMASSO ·
Not sure but I believe a BCR would be fine.
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Re: Battery needed??

hokie71 ·
Tom, I have several locos of this vintage and bcrs have been good in each.
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Re: Battery needed??

gunrunnerjohn ·
BCR works fine in the PS/1 locomotives, that's what it was originally designed for I believe.
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Re: Weekend at the Movies 9/23/16?

SDIV Tim ·
Night Time Challenger operating on the San Diego 3-Railers Layout
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Re: Weekend at the Movies 9/23/16?

CNJ 3676 ·
An NS eastbound on the Lehigh Line of Conrail Shared Assets at New Market in Piscataway Township, NJ: Bob
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Re: Weekend at the Movies 9/23/16?

BANDOB ·
Here's a video clip that is more for sound that what you see. Whistling through Dixie from my roomette on Amtrak's Silver Meteor last Monday night. Turn up the volume!
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Re: Weekend at the Movies 9/23/16?

SDIV Tim ·
Another Video, In this video has steam engines except for that blasted KATY!!!!
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Re: Unused PS-2 Engines and Batteries

Engineer-Joe ·
1) yes 2) you should charge the batteries if you are running conventional. If they're 5 volt, it maybe better to see what you have before charging. The 3 volt should take a charge. Did you buy a charger? If you run with the DCS system, the engine may well run as it charges. It won't add correctly to the remote if the battery is dead. So you could run each one for awhile before trying to add it to the system, or you could add to address #1 and then manually edit the address after it charges up.
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Re: Unused PS-2 Engines and Batteries

pferddy ·
Thank you Joe. I run DCS and I do have a MTH charger, but I don't think it has a fully charged indicator. Is there a way to tell if the battery (both 5V and 3V) are charged? Also, can try to operate without damaging the board? Thanks.
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Re: Unused PS-2 Engines and Batteries

Barry Broskowitz ·
can try to operate without damaging the board? Yes, you can Just get the engine started making sounds, in conventional or under DCS, and immediately cut track power. If sounds persist for at least 6 seconds, the battery is fine. If not, charge the battery until sounds do persist for at least 6 seconds. However, if sounds cut out immediately and the engine has a 5 volt board, do not operate the engine. Instead, swap out the battery for a new, fully-charged 8.4 volt rechargeable one. Is there...
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Re: Unused PS-2 Engines and Batteries

pferddy ·
Thank you very much, Barry. I will do exactly as you describe. Your help, and that of Joe, is most appreciated. Thanks again, Steve
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Re: Protosound 3.0 Help

Engineer-Joe ·
On the battery check, that has been posted a lot. It simply shows the state of charging. On the volume, is the volume pot set to zero?
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Re: Protosound 3.0 Help

Smoothdogjake ·
Pot is turned all the way up. And it always show low even after been on the track for 2 hours and power going to it...I just don’t understand why...all the other engines say ok even if they only been on the track 2 minutes
 
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